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By Ana Elena Sastrias, IPF Australia Chair and Aromatherapy Teacher A Symbol of Life and New Beginnings for Each Year The origins and history of Poinsettias ( Euphorbia pulcherrima) take us to the Aztec Civilization, where this flower was called cuetlax ōchitl, meaning "flower that grows in residues or soil”. This plant only grew in Winter from the lower altitudes in Mexico, in what is now Taxco, Cuernavaca. As with the higher altitudes of what is now Mexico City, previously called Tenochtitlan, it was not possible to grow this plant, and just got imported in that time from these low altitude areas. These flowers were used by the Aztecs in ceremonial sites and temples. As the Spaniards were trying to vanish any pagan rituals and beliefs from the Aztecs, they used the Poinsettias or cuetlaxõchitl flowers for the Celebration of Christmas. The Spaniards took the poinsettias as a symbol to get rid of the original pagan traditions of the Aztecs and replace them with friars of the Franciscan Christian religious order in Mexico included the plants in their Christmas celebrations. The star-shaped leaf pattern is said to symbolize the Star of Bethlehem, the red colour represents the blood shed during the sacrifice of Jesus' crucifixion, and the white leaves represent the purity of Jesus. Today, Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is known in Mexico and Guatemala as “flor de nochebuena” or simply “nochebuena”, meaning "Christmas Eve flower”. In other countries, like Spain, this plant is called “flor de pascua ”, meaning “Pascal flower” (Spanish people say “Pascua” to Christmas and “Pascua de Resurreción” to Passover or Easter). In Chile and Peru, this plant is known as “The Crown of the Andes”. Poinsettia is a commercially important flowering plant species of the diverse spurge family Euphorbiaceae. Indigenous to Mexico and Central America, the poinsettia was first described by Europeans in 1834. It is particularly well known for its red and green foliage and is widely used in Christmas floral displays. The flower was originally called either “Mexican flame flower” or “painted leaf” by people in United States, then, in 1836, the plant was named taxonomy after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first United States minister to Mexico, who also was a botanist, spoke many languages and was credited with introducing the plant to the USA in the 1820s. From that time and during the 20th century, production and propagation methods have
improved, but cutting large stems short and focusing on growing coloured leaves wider. More than 100 cultivars have been produced in Mexico, US and Europe including white, cream, yellow, peach, pink, purple, and marbled. Red poinsettias still account for more than 70% of sales. This plant brings all the leafy flower and colour only in Winter as a good promise to open a New Year. Nowadays, this potted plant is one of the most produced and sold in the world adding meaning to various traditions. Aztec people used the plant to produce red dye and as an antipyretic medication (reduction of fever) used in Aztec traditional medicine. Nevertheless, it does depend on the Euphorbia species and the treatment, as it has been documented that the latex from the Euphorbia pulcherrima can cause Asthma. Some species of Euphorbia have been used in folk medicine over the centuries, especially in the Euphorbia esula alliance. Latex of E. cooperi and E. ingens has been used locally in Africa to stun fish; grass soaked in latex is thrown into a pond and the fish then rise to the surface. Candelilla wax is obtained from E. Antisyphilitica and used as a food additive, glazing agent, and component of lip balm. The milky sap or latex of spurges is suggested to have a protective and defensive role in helping heal wounds and in deterring potential plant-eaters. There is a wide variety of chemical compounds present in Euphorbia sap, and some of them are toxic and potentially carcinogenic. Compounds known as terpene esters are common and often account for the extremely caustic and irritating properties of the milky sap, either by direct contact with the skin or even by exposure to the air and inflammation of the eyes or mucous membranes. Poinsettia or “flor de Noche Buena” has many symbols, taking us to a millenary culture, aside from the great economic importance in international trade, it does provide an important cultural impact in Mexico and the World reminding us of a promise of a new bloom for the celebration of the end of the Year and welcoming the beginning of the coming Year.
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By Creezy Courtoy, World Perfume Historian and Anthropologist A Fragrant Journey Through History This month, we travel through Taiwan’s perfume heritage — an island where fragrance and memory have long intertwined: from the cool breath of camphor forests to the spiral smoke of temple incense; from the steam of tea leaves unfolding to the sweetness of blossoms in the air. Indigenous Taiwan (before 1600s) Austronesian communities lived by the rhythm of smoke and song. Wild herbs, coastal resins, and ritual fires perfumed both healing and spirit — scents rising like prayers toward the mountains and the sea. Early Colonial Era (1624–1683) When Dutch and Spanish traders arrived seeking sugar and deer hides, they found another treasure: camphor -- the island’s first aromatic export to the world. Qing Rule (1683–1895) Migration from Fujian and Guangdong brought tea culture and temple devotion. Time when incense crafts flourished, and Taiwan’s camphor and tea scented both commerce and faith. Japanese Period (1895–1945) Industrialization transformed camphor into an empire’s commodity -- fueling perfumes, balms, plastics, and even munitions. In the cities, soaps and colognes entered daily life, and the idea of fragrance found its place in modernity. Once the world’s leading source of natural camphor, Taiwan perfumed both industry and medicine. Cool, sharp, and crystalline, camphor shaped soaps, ointments, and early plastics -- yet carried a deeper spirit. Even now, its scent recalls temple halls and ancestral chests: clean, nostalgic, protective. Across Taiwan’s temples, coils of sandalwood, agarwood, and herbal incense rise skyward -- offerings that perfume both streets and souls. Incense-making became a revered craft, turning everyday worship into a shared, fragrant ritual. Oolong and high-mountain teas unfold like perfumes -- orchid, osmanthus, and cream in gentle vapors. In courtyards and gardens, osmanthus, gardenia, champaca, and night-blooming jasmine scent the dusk, while Taiwan’s orchids bring their twin graces of form and fragrance. Taiwan’s perfume heritage flows from forest to temple, from teacup to bottle. It is a living fragrance of memory -- born of ritual, trade, and nature -- still unfolding across this island of scent and spirit. Today, a new generation of perfumers reimagines these roots: camphor and incense, tea mist and sea air, temple wood and night-market sugar -- all distilled into modern stories of identity and place. From factory floors to artisan studios, the scent of Taiwan endures. A revival of tea, temples, and niche perfumery now celebrates the fragrance of place -- capturing memory and identity in contemporary form. From sachets of mugwort and clove hung in homes for protection, to the bright splash of 花露水 (hua lu shui) -- Taiwan’s citrus-lavender Florida Water -- scent has always touched daily life. Taigrance, Rm. 3, 2F., No. 23, Sec. 3, Kangning Rd., Neihu District, is a very interesting niche perfumery store in Taipei, introducing some of IPF Certified Natural Perfumers to the most advised perfume lovers.
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist Perfume, like faith and poetry, does not know borders. From India, the fragrance of flowers and spices traveled on the monsoon winds, carried by merchant ships and caravans. In its wake, it sowed the seeds of civilizations across Southeast Asia, where kingdoms embraced India’s gods, rites, and perfumes as if they had always belonged to them. Legend tells us that distillation itself was revealed to an Indian princess, Nūr Jahān, whose name means “Light of the World.” On the morning of her wedding to Emperor Akbar, she saw delicate vapors rise from the surface of a rosewater fountain. Fascinated, she captured them and understood the secret of distillation. From this revelation, the art of attar reached new refinement, and perfumes became jewels of Mughal courts. Akbar, the great emperor, adored perfumes with such passion that his audience halls forever breathed of amber, agarwood, rose, and jasmine. Scented fountains whispered in his gardens, incense burned in golden braziers, and perfumed smoke enveloped his guests like a celestial embrace. In this atmosphere, perfumery became not only pleasure but also royal science, a craft elevated to the level of painting, music, and poetry. From the first centuries of our era, Indian merchants sailed the South Seas in search of cinnamon, clove, pepper, and resins. They brought with them not only perfumes and spices but also gods, myths, and art. They founded trading posts along the Gulf of Siam, in the Mekong Delta, in Sumatra and Java. The native peoples, enchanted by this refined civilization, absorbed it without resistance. Temples rose where Shiva and Vishnu joined local spirits, and Indian perfumed rites blended with Southeast Asia’s forests and rivers. In Oc-Eo, in present-day Vietnam, archaeologists uncovered jewels, statues, and perfumes from Rome, India, and China, proving this city of Fou-Nan was a crossroads of the world. From there, Indian influence reached Tchen-La, cradle of the Khmers, who would later raise Angkor as the crown of their civilization. At Angkor, perfume took on a monumental scale. The temples were perfumed with garlands, incense, and scented waters offered to the gods. Dancers, adorned with jasmine, betel, and wax candles, swayed like incarnations of Shiva. Their hair, crowned with golden caps, exhaled oils of flowers and herbs. Their long gilded nails extended their gestures like blossoms unfolding in the night. Before each performance, they bathed in sacred scented waters, blessed by priests, so that their movements would become offerings themselves. Perfume was also protection. In Cambodia, warriors received talismanic tunics inscribed with magic formulas, anointed with perfumes during solemn rites. Sprinkled with rosewater and incense, the fabric became a second skin of invulnerability. In battle, the scent of sanctity mingled with the roar of steel. Everywhere, incense burned in temples, mingling with prayers. Scented water was poured over statues of Buddha, golden petals covered his effigy, while monks sprinkled the faithful as a sign of purification and blessing. The Mekong became not only a river of life but a perfumed royal road. Even Marco Polo, arriving in the 13th century, was dazzled by the splendor of Khmer civilization. He described cities enveloped in incense, courts perfumed with oils, and women covered in flowers whose beauty seemed beyond human. In their dances, through smoke and fragrance, they appeared as celestial beings descended to earth. Thus, from India to Java, from the Mekong to Angkor, perfume remained the invisible ambassador of civilization. It was the essence that carried gods, myths, and beauty across oceans, weaving Asia into a single perfumed tapestry. Excerpt of "World Perfume Heritage" by Creezy Courtoy. The book will be released on Amazon in November.
By Pr Terry Johnson, IPF Vice Chair and Business & Marketing Teacher I recently reviewed a website (I won’t reveal which one to avoid embarrassing them) who had this definition of Natural Essence marketing:
“Marketing is a bizarre science that consists of the study of the process and the motivations that make human beings do something that no other living creature does: buy things, the end aim of all economic activity.” There is really nothing correct about this statement. What this author (as well as many others in natural essences) is really talking about here is “selling” not marketing. Selling is part of marketing, but marketing is a much more complex process including:
The true “end aim” of economic activity for Natural Essences should be helping millions of new consumers understand the importance and value of making Natural Essences part of their daily lives for a lifetime. If you want to learn more about marketing, enrol for Terry Johnson's Business and Marketing course By Creezy Courtoy IPF Founder and World Perfume History Teacher The Lotus holds deep common symbolic and spiritual significance of Rebirth, Purity, and the Divine in both Ancient Egyptian and Indian cultures. In Ancient Egypt, the blue lotus (likely Nymphaea caerulea) symbolized the sun, rebirth, and the cycle of life. It was associated with the sun god Ra, as it opens in the morning and closes at night, as a plant emerging from the primordial waters (Nun), bringing forth the first light. In India, the pink lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) symbolizes purity, spiritual awakening, and detachment from the material world. It’s linked to gods like Lakshmi, Vishnu, and Brahma, who are often depicted seated on a lotus, as rising unsullied from muddy waters, symbolizing enlightenment and transcendence. While Egypt and India developed their lotus symbolism independently, there were ancient trade and cultural exchanges via the Persian Empire, Mesopotamia, and the Perfume Roads. Symbolic ideas (like sacred plants) may have influenced each other over centuries. Buddhism, which emerged in India, spread to Egypt during the Greco-Roman era (especially in Alexandria), and Egyptian mystery religions also influenced early mystic traditions. Botanically, they’re from different genera, but their growth pattern (rising from muddy water) gave rise to similar meanings. National Flower of India The lotus is India’s official national flower, chosen for its strong cultural and spiritual presence across the country. It represents resilience, strength, and peace. In Art and Architecture, you’ll see lotus motifs in Indian temples, fabrics, sculptures, and paintings. A famous example is the Lotus Temple in Delhi — a Bahá’í House of Worship shaped like a blooming white lotus, symbolizing unity and harmony among all people and religions. In Language and Literature, you'll find in Sanskrit and many Indian languages, poetic references to lotus eyes, lotus feet, or lotus hearts are common - all expressing beauty, grace, or spiritual connection. Symbol of Purity and Enlightenment The lotus grows in muddy waters, yet it rises above the surface to bloom pristinely. This makes it a symbol of purity, spiritual awakening, and detachment — remaining untouched by impurity while blossoming beautifully. Sacred in Religions, for Hindus, the lotus is associated with several deities, especially: Lakshmi, goddess of wealth and beauty, who is often depicted sitting or standing on a lotus. Brahma, the creator god, is said to have emerged from a lotus growing from Vishnu’s navel. It represents divine birth and cosmic energy. For Buddhists, the lotus signifies the path to enlightenment - the idea of rising from suffering (mud) and blooming into awareness and wisdom. For Jainists, it also appears in symbols and iconography, particularly in depictions of Tirthankaras. In essence, the lotus is more than a flower in India - it’s a symbol of rising above, of beauty born from struggle, and of inner divinity. The Scent of the Lotus: A Fragrant Mystery Delicate & Ethereal The lotus has a light, airy, and slightly sweet fragrance - often described as fresh, watery, and soft. It’s not overpowering like jasmine or rose, but subtle, like the whisper of something ancient. Spiritual Undertones In many traditions, the lotus scent is believed to elevate consciousness - making it common in meditation oils and temple incense. It carries an energy of calm, purity, and transcendence. Aromatherapeutic Qualities Blue or Pink Lotus essential oils are prized in aromatherapy promoting relaxation and serenity. Used in chakra healing, especially the crown chakra, it helps in releasing emotional blockages and connecting to inner wisdom. Different Types, Slightly Different Scents Pink Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera): Mildly sweet, fresh, and floral. Blue Lotus (Nymphaea caerulea): Slightly more narcotic, rich, and musky-sweet; sometimes even said to have aphrodisiac properties. Rare and Precious in Perfumery, the true essence of lotus is rare and expensive, often found in high-end perfumes and sacred oils. Scent Profile: Indian Lotus Flower (Nelumbo nucifera) The scent of lotus is serene, otherworldly, and emotionally cleansing. It’s not about seduction - it’s about awakening. Like a breath of stillness in a temple at dawn. Fragrance Family: Floral – Aquatic – Soft Green Top Notes: Fresh Rainwater – clean, airy, translucent Crisp Green Petals – soft vegetal notes, almost dewy Hint of Anise or Melon – subtle sweetness, ethereal lift Heart Notes: Delicate Petal Accord – mildly sweet floral, light and cool Soft Powder – clean, slightly creamy, like morning skin White Tea or Bamboo – meditative, Zen-like calm Base Notes: Soft Musk – grounding and skin-like Amber Water – barely-there warmth, like sunlit water Sacred Earth – faint touch of sacred soil or sandalwood undertone (especially when infused into oils) Scent Profile Egypt Lotus Flower (Nymphaea caerulea)
The fragrance is ethereal, sensual, and slightly hypnotic, often described as calming and meditative. It’s not overpowering but rather unfolds gently, like a mist over water. It’s been historically used in rituals and perfumes for its soothing and euphoric properties. Top Notes: Lightly citrusy Fresh and green - a bit aquatic, reminiscent of a clean pond or rain-drenched leaves. Heart Notes: Floral and exotic - the core of the scent is sweet and subtly narcotic. Tropical and slightly fruity - evokes a sense of heady sweetness akin to jasmine, tuberose, or even ripe apricot. Anise-like undertone - very faint, adding to the dreamy, mysterious quality. Base Notes: Powdery and resinous Earthy and soft balsamic - with a very light musky nuance, not animalic but grounding. By Ana-Elena Sastrias, IPF Chair Australia and Natural Aromatherapy Teacher Natural Aromatherapy - The Ultimate Reconnection to your Body. It was through various personal life experiences that I gradually became more aware of certain health conditions I was facing - and how they were not just influenced by genetics, but also profoundly shaped by the environment around me. In our families, we learned traditional remedies passed down through generations. Some of these practices continue to prove their value, while others have been labeled as myths or dismissed by modern science. Yet, we now find ourselves in a time when people are increasingly seeking to reconnect with Nature, and through this reconnection, we are rediscovering profound truths about our bodies, our emotions, and our inner world. This renewed relationship with the natural world is offering us a key: a deeper awareness of what is really happening in our bodies and how to begin healing - physically, emotionally, mentally, and spiritually. Science is also beginning to recognise the value of traditional healing practices, acknowledging their purpose, effectiveness, and the ancestral wisdom behind them. These remedies have been tested through generations, rooted in the millenary knowledge of ancient civilisations dedicated to agriculture, herbal medicine, alchemy, and holistic healing. Today, with greater knowledge of allergens, hormone disruptors, phthalates, phenols, and other harmful ingredients, we are becoming much more selective. We are more mindful of the products we use, the medicines we take, and the therapies we choose - seeking those that are in alignment with our individual health, values, and well-being. I have been observing a new market trend for selling scents for public spaces or for homes. Personally, I do not enjoy going to businesses that have a very concentrated scent that persists all day with the same intensity. There is no story behind the scent, there is no other intention aside from showing off the scent and getting overwhelmed.
Be mindful about businesses who sell space-aroma-kits which do not show the kind of ingredients these scent products are made of and whether they will provide some therapeutic function or not, or whether they would need to be contraindicated to certain populations. In many of the cases, companies who sell Space Aromas are doing it for aesthetic purposes and for defining companies or organisations brand identity only. They are not precisely interested in people’s health. This is not Aromatherapy, even though it is marketed by that name. At The International Perfume Foundation (IPF), we use the term "Natural Aromatherapy" to clearly distinguish our practice from conventional "aromatherapy." We believe that “true aromatherapy” must be practiced using only high-quality essential oils that are ethically extracted from natural sources. This means: • No synthetic ingredients • No pesticides • No GMOs • No synthetic fragrances or isolated compounds • no phthalates, no parabens • No Phenoxyethanol • No Glycols • No Ethoxylated compounds Natural Aromatherapy, as IPF defines it, works exclusively with Nature’s purest ingredients: ethically sourced essential oils, floral waters (hydrosols), organic ethanol alcohol, cold- pressed vegetable carrier oils, oil macerates, and natural vegetable glycerin, among others. Through our Natural Aromatherapy Certification Course, you will begin a powerful journey of self-healing, guided by an IPF Certified Natural Aromatherapist. You will learn to understand the body’s systems holistically and how to support them using the therapeutic power of essential oils in meaningful, targeted applications. This is not just a course about blending oils - it’s about learning to understand your body and the relationship of plants and essential oils in your health. This practice will give you a deeper connection with your own self and Nature, by exploring Nature’s medicine cabinet offering support for physical, emotional, mental and spiritual healing. By the end of your journey, you will hold the keys to true holistic healing - grounded in Nature, supported by Science, and guided by ancestral knowledge. Whether you're a professional seeking new skills or someone on a personal wellness journey, this course is a gateway to transformative self-care and professional practice. The Natural Aromatherapy Certification Course is one of the three core courses required to become a Certified Natural Perfumotherapist - a professional who blends the art of natural perfumery with therapeutic applications for health and well-being. You are welcome to learn more about your pathways to become a Natural Aromatherapist, Natural Perfumer or a Perfumotherapy through IPF. By Creezy Courtoy Perfume Historian, Anthropologist and Teacher India, renowned as the "Country of a Thousand Perfumes," is a vast land with a rich history deeply entwined with the art of perfumery. This title is well-earned due to the country's extensive cultural rites and religious traditions, which have fostered a profound appreciation for fragrances. Indian literature and daily life are richly imbued with poetic, perfumed legends, and the rituals involve offerings of flowers and scents to the gods as tributes during religious festivals. In ceremonies, statues of deities are cleansed with scented waters, and spaces are perfumed with rosewater, vetiver, saffron, and blanketed with blossoms. Life's pivotal events in India, from weddings to funerals, are enveloped in aromatic smoke, symbolizing a continuity of tradition. The bustling markets of India are a sensory feast, full of vibrant colors and the intoxicating aromas of countless spices and perfumes. Incense burns in abundance, and gifts of flowers and fragrances are tokens of hospitality and friendship. Perfume, known as "attar" in Hindi, plays an essential role in everyday life, symbolizing health, purity, beauty, and spiritual virtues. Indian women traditionally use kohl to enhance their eyes and indulge in scented baths, anointing themselves with oils like rosewood and tuberose, setting their hair with jasmine, and adorning their faces with floral nectars. Perfumery is esteemed alongside science, medicine, and arts; according to ancient texts, it fulfills the earthly goals of religious devotion, material prosperity, and sensory delight. Temples, or "gandha-kuti," are perfumed rooms dedicated to worship. Vedic scriptures, dating back 3,500 years, describe the fumigation of aromatic woods, linking perfumery with spiritual practices. Each God in Hindu mythology is associated with specific flowers, which devotees offer during worship. India abounds with raw materials essential for perfumery, including mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, ginger, lemongrass, pepper, basil, patchouli, vetiver, jasmine, tuberose, roses.... Among these, sandalwood, considered the sacred national tree, has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Its aromatic wood is essential for religious ceremonies and holds significant cultural value. The art of distillation, possibly refined under the influence of Persian advancements, is attributed to Indian origins. According to legend, the Indian princess Nūr Jahān discovered the process leading to modern distillation techniques. Akbar, the "Perfume Emperor," who ruled from 1556 to 1605, was passionate about scents, leading to a flourishing trade in floral essences at his court. Fragrance in India is not just a sensory delight but a tapestry woven into the very fabric of its culture, playing a crucial role in its spiritual, social, and economic life, extending its influence throughout Southeast Asia. Creezy Courtoy is teaching World Perfume History Course, Anthropology of Perfume and Natural Olfaction Training By Creezy Courtoy, IPF Chair and Anthropologist Exploring Traditions In the 18th and 19th centuries, a fascinating tradition emerged in rural communities across Europe and beyond: the practice of informing bees when a member of the household passed away. This custom, steeped in folklore and superstition, highlights the deep connection between humans and nature, as well as the cultural significance of bees in the lives of our ancestors. A Conversation with Nature The act of speaking to bees during times of mourning was believed to ensure that the bees would not abandon their hives. Many people viewed bees as not only valuable pollinators but also as protective spirits of the household. By informing the bees of a death, it was thought that the bees would understand the solemnity of the moment and that the family could maintain good fortune and continued prosperity through their honey production. This ritual often took place during funerals, where a family member, close friend, or neighbor would softly approach the hives and quietly share the news of the passing. Phrases such as “Hive, your master has died” were commonly uttered. The belief was that if bees were not told, they would sense the loss in their own way, leading to a decline in honey production, swarming, or even the death of the bees. Cultural Significance and Variations
The tradition of telling bees was particularly prevalent in England and parts of Wales, although variations of the practice existed in other cultures as well. In some regions, it was customary to veil the hives during the mourning period or to place a black cloth over them to signify the death. These practices are rooted in a deep respect for bees as integral members of the ecosystem, deserving of communication and care. In addition to the act of telling bees, some cultures believed that bees could carry messages to the deceased. The notion that these creatures had a unique connection to the spiritual realm added an extra layer of significance to the tradition. The simple act of conversing with these tiny beings symbolized a reverence for life and death, and an acknowledgment of the interconnectedness of all living things. Decline of the Tradition As societies evolved and industrialization took hold, many of these rural customs began to fade. The growing shift towards modern agricultural practices and the increasing distance from nature diminished the significance of this practice. However, the fascination with bees has sparked a resurgence in interest about their ecological importance, prompting many to reflect on the historical roles they played in our lives. Today, while the tradition of telling bees may no longer be widely practiced, it serves as a poignant reminder of our relationship with the natural world. As we continue to face challenges related to bee populations and environmental sustainability, revisiting these traditions can inspire a renewed appreciation for these vital pollinators. Part 3: Scented Leather By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist The rich tradition of scented leather, also called Spanish Skin, has roots that intertwine with the grandeur of Spain’s cultural evolution from the medieval period through to the Renaissance. This era not only celebrated artistry and innovation but also marked the rise of perfumed skins as a luxurious symbol among the European aristocracy. During the Caliphate of Cordoba, which flourished from 711 to 1031 AD, the Iberian Peninsula became a melting pot of knowledge and practices derived from various civilizations, including the Arabs. It was during this time that the techniques for distilling flowers and extracting fragrances were refined, laying the groundwork for the future of perfumed leather. Spanish Origins in Scented Leather The tradition of perfuming leather began in Spain during the Middle Ages and flourished during the Renaissance. The Spanish developed techniques for incorporating aromatic oils into leather, especially gloves, which became a fashionable accessory among the European aristocracy. The knowledge of floral distillation was inherited from the Arab influence during the Caliphate of Cordoba, creating a rich base for the art of fragrance. The tradition of incorporating scent into leather, particularly gloves, emerged as a luxurious practice amongst the aristocratic class in Spain. The blending of rich, aromatic oils with carefully crafted leather not only elevated its aesthetic appeal but also served practical purposes, such as masking less pleasant odors. This was crucial in an era when bathing was infrequent, and personal hygiene practices were vastly different from today. The Renaissance Influence The 16th century marked a pivotal moment for scented leather, particularly with the influence of Catherine de Medici. Upon her marriage to the future King Henry II of France, Catherine brought with her a wealth of knowledge from Italy and the tradition of perfumed gloves. This not only popularized Spanish leather across France but also triggered a fashion trend that spread throughout Europe. The nobility soon began to differentiate themselves through their use of scented gloves, leading to an explosion of demand for Spanish skins, which were praised for their quality and fragrance. The Court of Louis XIII and the Legacy of Anne d’Autriche The allure of scented leather continued to flourish at the Court of Louis XIII in the 17th century, largely influenced by Anne d’Autriche, a Spanish princess and wife of Louis XIII. Her roots in Spanish culture reintroduced the tradition of perfumed gloves to the French court, along with the science of floral cultivation and the art of distillation. Under her influence, the practice of scenting leather became further entrenched in European fashion, evolving into elaborate rituals of personal care. Anne’s presence at court not only extended the reach of Spanish leather but also solidified the perception of perfume as an essential accessory for both men and women. The enchanting fragrances infused in gloves, hair, and garments allowed the aristocracy to showcase their status while indulging in the sensory pleasures of scent at the court. To scent the castle rooms, she introduced to France small cages containing little birds made of scented pastes called “Oiselets de Chypre” (Little Birds of Cyprus). Louis XIII recommended them to purify the atmosphere and as protection from epidemics. Scented skins were prohibitively expensive, but they were very fashionable and there were plenty of recipes for perfuming them. It was not so much by taste they were perfumed, but by necessity, the skin was often badly tanned and their odor was obnoxious and unbearable. To get rid of the odor, strong and long-lasting essences were required or powerful perfumes such as musk, civet and amber. Animal materials were highly prized and fell into the composition of most perfumes; they were considered to be enchanting and aphrodisiac. It was the fashion of Spanish skins and everything was perfumed from four-poster beds, fans, books and even pets. With her death, Anne did not leave behind any less than 350 pairs of gloves. Half of them were made of Spanish leather and each of them was scented with different fragrances. As the taste for scented gloves and leather products grew, it is only in the 17th century perfumers in Grasse began to cultivate flowers specifically for the purpose of fragrance. The region's climate and soil proved conducive to the growth of various aromatic plants, such as jasmine, roses, and lavender. Louis XIII, introduced the title of “Master Glovemaker-Perfumer” in 1614 for a true corporation and statutes approved by the Provence Parliament in 1729, this new corporation gradually detached from tannery and finally stopped in 1759. In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course
By Terry Johnson, Business and Marketing Expert and Teacher Natural essences, and the flowers and plants they come from, are some of Mother Earth’s greatest gifts, benefiting human health and happiness for centuries. Knowing this, aren’t all of us who work with these essences obligated to ensure those benefits continue for our customers, ourselves, our children, and our children’s children? If you are interested in a more sustainable business, here are several steps you can take beginning today: 1. The first step is a personal commitment to sustainability. When we fly, the flight attendant always instructs us to first put our own mask on before helping others. Sustaining Mother Earth begins within ourselves. 2. Next step is to make sustainability part of your Purpose Statement, Mission Statement, and Value Proposition and make sure everyone working with you understands your commitment and what it means to everyone else in the supply chain. 3. Once these commitments are made, begin educating yourself on what sustainability really means for your business, the natural essence supply chain community, and most importantly for establishing and keeping customers for a lifetime. Consumers prefer buying from companies that don’t just sell great products. They are also looking for authenticity, integrity, and transparency. Companies that work with growers and processors that are mindful of the air, water, earth, and the animals and plants that surround them, can help you build trust and confidence with consumers, which is why IPF and other leading experts in essential oils around the world developed Sustainable Essential Oil Standards (SEOS) in 2020. Real sustainability (rather than greenwashing or virtue-signaling) is far more comprehensive than just working with a single program that is environmentally friendly. SEOS breaks down sustainability into 5 Pillars and then expands each of these Pillars into 5 standards per Pillar, totaling 25 separate sustainable standards. 5 Pillars of Sustainability Environmental Sustainability Cultural Sustainability Social Sustainability Distribution and Labeling Sustainability Economic Sustainability Here is a list of benefits SEOS will bring:
You can find out more about sustaining Mother Earth in natural essences by visiting the SEOS website here: https://www.essentialoilstandards.com/ |
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