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TAIWAN IN SCENT AND TIME

29/10/2025

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Taipei Palace Museum: Incense burner with openwork design in wucai polychrome enamels. Qing dynasty, Kangxi reign (1662-1722)
Taipei Palace Museum: Incense burner with openwork design in wucai polychrome enamels. Qing dynasty, Kangxi reign (1662-1722)
By Creezy Courtoy, World Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
A Fragrant Journey Through History
This month, we travel through Taiwan’s perfume heritage — an island where fragrance and memory have long intertwined: from the cool breath of camphor forests to the spiral smoke of temple incense; from the steam of tea leaves unfolding to the sweetness of blossoms in the air.

Indigenous Taiwan (before 1600s)
Austronesian communities lived by the rhythm of smoke and song.  Wild herbs, coastal resins, and ritual fires perfumed both healing and spirit — scents rising like prayers toward the mountains and the sea.
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Taipei Palace Museum: Openwork jade fragrance pouch in cashew shape decorated with two dragons playing with a pearl, Qing dynasty (1644-1911)

​Early Colonial Era (1624–1683)
When Dutch and Spanish traders arrived seeking sugar and deer hides, they found another treasure: camphor -- the island’s first aromatic export to the world.

Qing Rule (1683–1895)
Migration from Fujian and Guangdong brought tea culture and temple devotion.
Time when incense crafts flourished, and Taiwan’s camphor and tea scented both commerce and faith.

Japanese Period (1895–1945)
Industrialization transformed camphor into an empire’s commodity -- fueling perfumes, balms, plastics, and even munitions.
In the cities, soaps and colognes entered daily life, and the idea of fragrance found its place in modernity.
​Once the world’s leading source of natural camphor,
 Taiwan perfumed both industry and medicine.
Cool, sharp, and crystalline, camphor shaped soaps, ointments, and early plastics -- yet carried a deeper spirit.
Even now, its scent recalls temple halls and ancestral chests: clean, nostalgic, protective.
Taipei Palace Museum: Gilt gourd-shaped fragrance pouch, Qing Dynasty (1644-1911)
Taipei Palace Museum: Gilt gourd-shaped fragrance pouch, Qing Dynasty (1644-1911)
Across Taiwan’s temples, coils of sandalwood, agarwood, and herbal incense rise skyward -- offerings that perfume both streets and souls.
Incense-making became a revered craft, turning everyday worship into a shared, fragrant ritual.
Oolong and high-mountain teas unfold like perfumes -- orchid, osmanthus, and cream in gentle vapors.
In courtyards and gardens, osmanthus, gardenia, champaca, and night-blooming jasmine scent the dusk, while Taiwan’s orchids bring their twin graces of form and fragrance.
Taiwan’s perfume heritage flows from forest to temple, from teacup to bottle.
It is a living fragrance of memory -- born of ritual, trade, and nature -- still unfolding across this island of scent and spirit.
Taipei Palace Museum: Gilt copper filigree fragrance pouch with pearl-and-gemstone inlay Qing dynasty (1644-1911)
Taipei Palace Museum: Gilt copper filigree fragrance pouch with pearl-and-gemstone inlay Qing dynasty (1644-1911)
Today, a new generation of perfumers reimagines these roots:
camphor and incense, tea mist and sea air, temple wood and night-market sugar -- all distilled into modern stories of identity and place. From factory floors to artisan studios, the scent of Taiwan endures.
A revival of tea, temples, and niche perfumery now celebrates the fragrance of place -- capturing memory and identity in contemporary form.
From Left to Right: Creezy Courtoy and Kristin Chen, Certified Natural Perfumer and Teacher  appointed as a IPF representative in Taiwan to preserve the Perfume Heritage, IPF's mission.
From Left to Right: Creezy Courtoy and Kristin Chen, Certified Natural Perfumer and Teacher appointed as a IPF representative in Taiwan to preserve the Perfume Heritage, IPF's mission.
From sachets of mugwort and clove hung in homes for protection,
to the bright splash of 花露水 (hua lu shui) -- Taiwan’s citrus-lavender Florida Water -- scent has always touched daily life.

Taigrance, Rm. 3, 2F., No. 23, Sec. 3, Kangning Rd., Neihu District, is a very interesting niche perfumery store in Taipei, introducing some of IPF Certified Natural Perfumers to the most advised perfume lovers.
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WORLD PERFUME HERITAGE - INDIANISED COUNTRIES

28/9/2025

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Bali, Sanur, the Byrd
Bali, Sanur, the Byrd
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
Perfume, like faith and poetry, does not know borders. From India, the fragrance of flowers and spices traveled on the monsoon winds, carried by merchant ships and caravans. In its wake, it sowed the seeds of civilizations across Southeast Asia, where kingdoms embraced India’s gods, rites, and perfumes as if they had always belonged to them.

Legend tells us that distillation itself was revealed to an Indian princess, Nūr Jahān, whose name means “Light of the World.” On the morning of her wedding to Emperor Akbar, she saw delicate vapors rise from the surface of a rosewater fountain. Fascinated, she captured them and understood the secret of distillation. From this revelation, the art of attar reached new refinement, and perfumes became jewels of Mughal courts.
Akbar, the great emperor, adored perfumes with such passion that his audience halls forever breathed of amber, agarwood, rose, and jasmine. Scented fountains whispered in his gardens, incense burned in golden braziers, and perfumed smoke enveloped his guests like a celestial embrace. In this atmosphere, perfumery became not only pleasure but also royal science, a craft elevated to the level of painting, music, and poetry.

From the first centuries of our era, Indian merchants sailed the South Seas in search of cinnamon, clove, pepper, and resins. They brought with them not only perfumes and spices but also gods, myths, and art. They founded trading posts along the Gulf of Siam, in the Mekong Delta, in Sumatra and Java. The native peoples, enchanted by this refined civilization, absorbed it without resistance. Temples rose where Shiva and Vishnu joined local spirits, and Indian perfumed rites blended with Southeast Asia’s forests and rivers.
Collection Creezy Courtoy
Collection Creezy Courtoy
In Oc-Eo, in present-day Vietnam, archaeologists uncovered jewels, statues, and perfumes from Rome, India, and China, proving this city of Fou-Nan was a crossroads of the world. From there, Indian influence reached Tchen-La, cradle of the Khmers, who would later raise Angkor as the crown of their civilization.
 
At Angkor, perfume took on a monumental scale. The temples were perfumed with garlands, incense, and scented waters offered to the gods. Dancers, adorned with jasmine, betel, and wax candles, swayed like incarnations of Shiva. Their hair, crowned with golden caps, exhaled oils of flowers and herbs. Their long gilded nails extended their gestures like blossoms unfolding in the night. Before each performance, they bathed in sacred scented waters, blessed by priests, so that their movements would become offerings themselves.
Perfume was also protection. In Cambodia, warriors received talismanic tunics inscribed with magic formulas, anointed with perfumes during solemn rites. Sprinkled with rosewater and incense, the fabric became a second skin of invulnerability. In battle, the scent of sanctity mingled with the roar of steel.
 
Everywhere, incense burned in temples, mingling with prayers. Scented water was poured over statues of Buddha, golden petals covered his effigy, while monks sprinkled the faithful as a sign of purification and blessing. The Mekong became not only a river of life but a perfumed royal road.
Even Marco Polo, arriving in the 13th century, was dazzled by the splendor of Khmer civilization. He described cities enveloped in incense, courts perfumed with oils, and women covered in flowers whose beauty seemed beyond human. In their dances, through smoke and fragrance, they appeared as celestial beings descended to earth.
 
Thus, from India to Java, from the Mekong to Angkor, perfume remained the invisible ambassador of civilization. It was the essence that carried gods, myths, and beauty across oceans, weaving Asia into a single perfumed tapestry.
Collection Creezy Courtoy
Collection Creezy Courtoy
Excerpt of "World Perfume Heritage" by Creezy Courtoy. The book will be released on Amazon in November. 
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FROM EGYPT TO INDIA, LOTUS MYSTICAL SCENTS

29/7/2025

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Egyptian and Indian Lotus
By Creezy Courtoy IPF Founder and World Perfume History Teacher
The Lotus holds deep common symbolic and spiritual significance of Rebirth, Purity, and the Divine in both Ancient Egyptian and Indian cultures.
In Ancient Egypt, the blue lotus (likely Nymphaea caerulea) symbolized the sun, rebirth, and the cycle of life. It was associated with the sun god Ra, as it opens in the morning and closes at night, as a plant emerging from the primordial waters (Nun), bringing forth the first light.
In India, the pink lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) symbolizes purity, spiritual awakening, and detachment from the material world. It’s linked to gods like Lakshmi, Vishnu, and Brahma, who are often depicted seated on a lotus, as rising unsullied from muddy waters, symbolizing enlightenment and transcendence.
While Egypt and India developed their lotus symbolism independently, there were ancient trade and cultural exchanges via the Persian Empire, Mesopotamia, and the Perfume Roads. Symbolic ideas (like sacred plants) may have influenced each other over centuries.
Buddhism, which emerged in India, spread to Egypt during the Greco-Roman era (especially in Alexandria), and Egyptian mystery religions also influenced early mystic traditions. 
Botanically, they’re from different genera, but their growth pattern (rising from muddy water) gave rise to similar meanings.

National Flower of India
The lotus is India’s official national flower, chosen for its strong cultural and spiritual presence across the country. It represents resilience, strength, and peace.
In Art and Architecture, you’ll see lotus motifs in Indian temples, fabrics, sculptures, and paintings. A famous example is the Lotus Temple in Delhi — a Bahá’í House of Worship shaped like a blooming white lotus, symbolizing unity and harmony among all people and religions.
In Language and Literature, you'll find in Sanskrit and many Indian languages, poetic references to lotus eyes, lotus feet, or lotus hearts are common - all expressing beauty, grace, or spiritual connection.

Symbol of Purity and Enlightenment
The lotus grows in muddy waters, yet it rises above the surface to bloom pristinely. This makes it a symbol of purity, spiritual awakening, and detachment — remaining untouched by impurity while blossoming beautifully.
Sacred in Religions, for Hindus, the lotus is associated with several deities, especially:
Lakshmi, goddess of wealth and beauty, who is often depicted sitting or standing on a lotus. Brahma, the creator god, is said to have emerged from a lotus growing from Vishnu’s navel.
It represents divine birth and cosmic energy.
For Buddhists, the lotus signifies the path to enlightenment - the idea of rising from suffering (mud) and blooming into awareness and wisdom.
For Jainists, it also appears in symbols and iconography, particularly in depictions of Tirthankaras.

In essence, the lotus is more than a flower in India - it’s a symbol of rising above, of beauty born from struggle, and of inner divinity.
India Lotus Flower
India Lotus Flower
The Scent of the Lotus: A Fragrant Mystery
Delicate & Ethereal
The lotus has a light, airy, and slightly sweet fragrance - often described as fresh, watery, and soft. It’s not overpowering like jasmine or rose, but subtle, like the whisper of something ancient.
Spiritual Undertones
In many traditions, the lotus scent is believed to elevate consciousness - making it common in meditation oils and temple incense. It carries an energy of calm, purity, and transcendence.
Aromatherapeutic Qualities
Blue or Pink Lotus essential oils are prized in aromatherapy promoting relaxation and serenity. Used in chakra healing, especially the crown chakra, it helps in releasing emotional blockages and connecting to inner wisdom.
Different Types, Slightly Different Scents
Pink Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera): Mildly sweet, fresh, and floral.
Blue Lotus (Nymphaea caerulea): Slightly more narcotic, rich, and musky-sweet; sometimes even said to have aphrodisiac properties.

Rare and Precious in Perfumery, the true essence of lotus is rare and expensive, often found in high-end perfumes and sacred oils. 

Scent Profile: Indian Lotus Flower (Nelumbo nucifera)
The scent of lotus is serene, otherworldly, and emotionally cleansing. It’s not about seduction - it’s about awakening. Like a breath of stillness in a temple at dawn.
Fragrance Family: Floral – Aquatic – Soft Green
Top Notes: Fresh Rainwater – clean, airy, translucent
Crisp Green Petals – soft vegetal notes, almost dewy
Hint of Anise or Melon – subtle sweetness, ethereal lift
Heart Notes: Delicate Petal Accord – mildly sweet floral, light and cool
Soft Powder – clean, slightly creamy, like morning skin
White Tea or Bamboo – meditative, Zen-like calm
Base Notes: Soft Musk – grounding and skin-like
Amber Water – barely-there warmth, like sunlit water
Sacred Earth – faint touch of sacred soil or sandalwood undertone (especially when infused into oils)
Egypt Lotus Flower
Egypt Lotus Flower
Scent Profile Egypt Lotus Flower (Nymphaea caerulea)
The fragrance is ethereal, sensual, and slightly hypnotic, often described as calming and meditative. It’s not overpowering but rather unfolds gently, like a mist over water. It’s been historically used in rituals and perfumes for its soothing and euphoric properties.
Top Notes: Lightly citrusy
Fresh and green - a bit aquatic, reminiscent of a clean pond or rain-drenched leaves.
Heart Notes: Floral and exotic - the core of the scent is sweet and subtly narcotic.
Tropical and slightly fruity - evokes a sense of heady sweetness akin to jasmine, tuberose, or even ripe apricot.
Anise-like undertone - very faint, adding to the dreamy, mysterious quality.
Base Notes: Powdery and resinous
Earthy and soft balsamic - with a very light musky nuance, not animalic but grounding.
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BEES ARE KEEPERS

31/5/2025

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Bees are keepers
By Creezy Courtoy, IPF Chair and Anthropologist
Exploring Traditions
In the 18th and 19th centuries, a fascinating tradition emerged in rural communities across Europe and beyond: the practice of informing bees when a member of the household passed away. This custom, steeped in folklore and superstition, highlights the deep connection between humans and nature, as well as the cultural significance of bees in the lives of our ancestors.

A Conversation with Nature
The act of speaking to bees during times of mourning was believed to ensure that the bees would not abandon their hives. Many people viewed bees as not only valuable pollinators but also as protective spirits of the household. By informing the bees of a death, it was thought that the bees would understand the solemnity of the moment and that the family could maintain good fortune and continued prosperity through their honey production.
This ritual often took place during funerals, where a family member, close friend, or neighbor would softly approach the hives and quietly share the news of the passing. Phrases such as “Hive, your master has died” were commonly uttered. The belief was that if bees were not told, they would sense the loss in their own way, leading to a decline in honey production, swarming, or even the death of the bees.
Apiculture
Cultural Significance and Variations
The tradition of telling bees was particularly prevalent in England and parts of Wales, although variations of the practice existed in other cultures as well. In some regions, it was customary to veil the hives during the mourning period or to place a black cloth over them to signify the death. These practices are rooted in a deep respect for bees as integral members of the ecosystem, deserving of communication and care.
In addition to the act of telling bees, some cultures believed that bees could carry messages to the deceased. The notion that these creatures had a unique connection to the spiritual realm added an extra layer of significance to the tradition. The simple act of conversing with these tiny beings symbolized a reverence for life and death, and an acknowledgment of the interconnectedness of all living things.

Decline of the Tradition
As societies evolved and industrialization took hold, many of these rural customs began to fade. The growing shift towards modern agricultural practices and the increasing distance from nature diminished the significance of this practice. However, the fascination with bees has sparked a resurgence in interest about their ecological importance, prompting many to reflect on the historical roles they played in our lives.
Today, while the tradition of telling bees may no longer be widely practiced, it serves as a poignant reminder of our relationship with the natural world. As we continue to face challenges related to bee populations and environmental sustainability, revisiting these traditions can inspire a renewed appreciation for these vital pollinators.
Bees on hands
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SPAIN, A FORGOTTEN LEGACY - PART 3

29/4/2025

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Spanish Scented Leather Gloves Creezy Courtoy's Collection
Spanish Scented Leather Gloves Creezy Courtoy's Collection
Part 3: Scented Leather
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The rich tradition of scented leather, also called Spanish Skin, has roots that intertwine with the grandeur of Spain’s cultural evolution from the medieval period through to the Renaissance. This era not only celebrated artistry and innovation but also marked the rise of perfumed skins as a luxurious symbol among the European aristocracy. 
During the Caliphate of Cordoba, which flourished from 711 to 1031 AD, the Iberian Peninsula became a melting pot of knowledge and practices derived from various civilizations, including the Arabs. It was during this time that the techniques for distilling flowers and extracting fragrances were refined, laying the groundwork for the future of perfumed leather.

Spanish Origins in Scented Leather
The tradition of perfuming leather began in Spain during the Middle Ages and flourished during the Renaissance. The Spanish developed techniques for incorporating aromatic oils into leather, especially gloves, which became a fashionable accessory among the European aristocracy. The knowledge of floral distillation was inherited from the Arab influence during the Caliphate of Cordoba, creating a rich base for the art of fragrance. 

The tradition of incorporating scent into leather, particularly gloves, emerged as a luxurious practice amongst the aristocratic class in Spain. The blending of rich, aromatic oils with carefully crafted leather not only elevated its aesthetic appeal but also served practical purposes, such as masking less pleasant odors. This was crucial in an era when bathing was infrequent, and personal hygiene practices were vastly different from today.

The Renaissance Influence
The 16th century marked a pivotal moment for scented leather, particularly with the influence of Catherine de Medici. Upon her marriage to the future King Henry II of France, Catherine brought with her a wealth of knowledge from Italy and the tradition of perfumed gloves. This not only popularized Spanish leather across France but also triggered a fashion trend that spread throughout Europe. The nobility soon began to differentiate themselves through their use of scented gloves, leading to an explosion of demand for Spanish skins, which were praised for their quality and fragrance.
Anne d'Autriche
Anne d'Autriche
The Court of Louis XIII and the Legacy of Anne d’Autriche
The allure of scented leather continued to flourish at the Court of Louis XIII in the 17th century, largely influenced by Anne d’Autriche, a Spanish princess and wife of Louis XIII. Her roots in Spanish culture reintroduced the tradition of perfumed gloves to the French court, along with the science of floral cultivation and the art of distillation. Under her influence, the practice of scenting leather became further entrenched in European fashion, evolving into elaborate rituals of personal care.
Anne’s presence at court not only extended the reach of Spanish leather but also solidified the perception of perfume as an essential accessory for both men and women. The enchanting fragrances infused in gloves, hair, and garments allowed the aristocracy to showcase their status while indulging in the sensory pleasures of scent at the court.
To scent the castle rooms, she introduced to France small cages containing little birds made of scented pastes called “Oiselets de Chypre” (Little Birds of Cyprus). Louis XIII recommended them to purify the atmosphere and as protection from epidemics.
Scented skins were prohibitively expensive, but they were very fashionable and there were plenty of recipes for perfuming them. It was not so much by taste they were perfumed, but by necessity, the skin was often badly tanned and their odor was obnoxious and unbearable.
To get rid of the odor, strong and long-lasting essences were required or powerful perfumes such as musk, civet and amber. Animal materials were highly prized and fell into the composition of most perfumes; they were considered to be enchanting and aphrodisiac.
It was the fashion of Spanish skins and everything was perfumed from four-poster beds, fans, books and even pets.
With her death, Anne did not leave behind any less than 350 pairs of gloves. Half of them were made of Spanish leather and each of them was scented with different fragrances.

As the taste for scented gloves and leather products grew, it is only in the 17th century perfumers in Grasse began to cultivate flowers specifically for the purpose of fragrance. The region's climate and soil proved conducive to the growth of various aromatic plants, such as jasmine, roses, and lavender.  Louis XIII, introduced the title of “Master Glovemaker-Perfumer” in 1614 for a true corporation and statutes approved by the Provence Parliament in 1729, this new corporation gradually detached from tannery and finally stopped in 1759.
Spanish Skin
In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course
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SPAIN, A FORGOTTEN LEGACY - PART 2

31/3/2025

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Spain, forgotten legacy - Part 2

Part 2 - The Age of Exploration

By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
Spain was one of the main supply channels for perfumery products in the 15th, 16th and 17th Centuries. 
In the precedent episode, we saw how the Arabs brought with them advanced knowledge of alchemy and distillation, which was crucial for the development of perfumes. The way they introduced new ingredients and techniques, influencing the European approach to perfumery.  They brought with them the art of perfume and the science of perfumery, the culture of flowers and raw material for perfumery. This period saw advancements in the methods of extracting and blending fragrances.  

While Spain's climate and geography were ideal for cultivating aromatic plants and flowers, such as orange blossoms, jasmine, and rosemary, the country also played a pivotal role in global trade. 
In this episode, we will discover what made Spain even more powerful playing a major role on the Perfume Roads.
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Recall that Venice played an important role in the trade of raw material but at the age of maritime exploration, they never thought Portugal would invest seeking new trade routes and expanding its influence.
Before the Portuguese opened new sea routes, Venice relied on overland trade routes, such as the Perfume Road and other connections through the Middle East. The Portuguese sea route offered a more efficient and less costly alternative, diminishing the importance of these overland paths.
Spanish Empire
First Spanish and Portuguese Empires XV-XVII Centuries: Orange: Spanish Empire - Violet: Portuguese Empire - Green: French and English Possessions.
The landmark journey of Vasco da Gama in 1497-1498 around the Cape of Good Hope to India was pivotal. This sea route allowed the Portuguese to access the rich spice markets of Asia directly, bypassing overland trade routes dominated by Venetian and Middle Eastern merchants.
The direct sea route to Asia meant that spices and other goods could be brought to Europe more cheaply and in larger quantities. The Portuguese could therefore offer better prices, eroding Venice's monopoly and competitive edge.
Portugal established a series of fortified trading posts along the coasts of Africa and Asia. Places like Goa, Malacca, and Hormuz became key centers for controlling the spice trade.
They also developed superior navigational techniques and shipbuilding technologies, such as the use of the caravel, which allowed them to undertake longer sea voyages safely.

Lisbon replaced Venice and became the continent’s larger market for spices and perfumes thanks to its tremendous naval power and to the Portuguese who were excellent navigators. 
But the Portuguese colonial empire was short-lived. The incompetence of Portuguese monarchs led Spain to militarily occupy Portugal in 1580 and Spain took control of Portugal overseas colonies and their trade.
During this period (the Iberian Union from 1580 till 1640), Philip II of Spain became the King of Portugal, allowing the Spanish Crown to control and benefit from raw material in provenance of a vast colonial empire, which included territories in Africa, Asia and the Americas including the spice and perfume trade roads.
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The 15th, 16th, 17th and the first part of the 18th Centuries were marked by intense traffic on the Eastern Seas where Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, English and French were competing for raw materials.
Spain used dynastic marriages and diplomacy to strenghthen its trade networks and stabilize its trade interests across Europe, insuring a steady flow of goods.
Spanish explorers brought back exotic spices and botanicals from the New World and the East Indies, which enriched the European perfume palette. This exchange led to the introduction of new scents and materials that were incorporated into European perfumes.

Check our next Episode: Spain a Forgotten Legacy Part 2

In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's 
World Perfume History Course
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Chocolate and Scents

29/12/2024

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Scents and Chocolate
Copyright photo Angelina Padron
 By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
If you love perfumes, you probably also love food, pastries and chocolates as the sense of taste is 85% olfactive.
Chocolate's origins trace back to ancient civilizations like the Maya and Aztecs, who revered cacao not only as a food but as a sacred substance.
They prepared a frothy beverage infused with spices, often enjoyed during ceremonial rituals and social gatherings, highlighting the deep connection between chocolate and the human experience
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In South American countries, particularly in places like Peru and Ecuador, chocolate is deeply embedded in cultural traditions.
Cacao ceremonies have been practiced for centuries, where the preparation and sharing of chocolate are seen as sacred rituals that foster connection and community.  During these ceremonies, raw cacao is often blended with natural sweeteners and spices, creating a rich beverage that is consumed in a communal setting. Participants are encouraged to express gratitude and intentions, making the experience both spiritual and sensory. The act of drinking chocolate becomes a means to enhance emotional well-being, promote mindfulness, and connect with the earth’s gifts. These ceremonies serve not only as a celebration of cacao but also as a reminder of the importance of community and connection in our lives. They highlight the transformative power of chocolate, especially when paired with aromatic scents that engage the senses and promote a feeling of harmony

If tea, coffee and chocolate appear for the first time at the Court at the time of the marriage of Louis XIV with Marie Thérèse d'Autriche, it is only at the time of Louis XV that hot chocolate arrived at the French Court promoted by the well known Marquise de Pompadour.

In recent years, the art of infusing chocolate with various scents has gained popularity, not only for culinary innovation but also for enhancing well-being. The practice of combining chocolate with aromatic spices and fruits creates a multisensory experience that can uplift the spirit and promote relaxation.

The fusion of chocolate with spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and chili has roots in traditional recipes where these ingredients were believed to have health benefits.

The Wellness Benefits of Scented Chocolate
The infusion of scents into chocolate not only elevates its flavor but also enhances its benefits. Aromatherapy principles suggest that certain scents can influence mood and well-being. When combined with the natural properties of chocolate, this can create a powerful experience for both body and mind. The act of savoring chocolate infused with delightful fragrances can stimulate the release of endorphins, enhancing feelings of happiness and relaxation. Moreover, the antioxidants found in dark chocolate, paired with the health benefits of various scents, create a delicious avenue towards wellness.

Cinnamon, for instance, adds warmth and sweetness while being known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Chili brings a hint of heat, which can boost metabolism and enhance mood.
Basil and Yuzu: This intriguing combination brings a fresh, herbal note to chocolate. Basil, often associated with tranquility and balance, pairs beautifully with the zesty brightness of yuzu, a citrus fruit. The result is a unique flavor profile that invigorates the senses and promotes a sense of well-being
Chai Infusion: The comforting blend of chai spices—cardamom, ginger, cloves, and black pepper—infused in chocolate can evoke feelings of warmth and nostalgia. This combination not only delights the palate but also offers antioxidant benefits, thanks to the spices, making it a perfect treat for relaxation and rejuvenation

Therefore, if you are perfumer, don't hesitate to associate chocolate and scents and, 
to everyone, don't feel guilty anymore, eating chocolate as it is good for you!
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THE CHRISTMAS TREE RICH HISTORY

27/11/2024

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The Christmas Tree Rich History
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The Christmas tree has a rich history that dates back centuries, with its origins often traced to ancient pagan traditions. 
The use of evergreen trees and plants during winter solstice celebrations predates Christianity.  Ancient Egyptians, for example, used palm fronds to symbolize the triumph of life over death during the winter solstice. Similarly, the Druids in ancient Britain and the Romans used evergreen boughs to decorate their homes during the winter months.
The modern Christmas tree tradition is widely believed to have originated in Germany in the 16th century. It is said that devout Christians began bringing decorated trees into their homes as a symbol of faith.

The earliest documented use of a Christmas tree in a home was in 1570 in the town of Strasbourg.
Initially, trees were decorated with apples, nuts, and paper flowers. Over time, the decorations evolved to include candles, which represented the light of Christ, and later, glass ornaments, tinsel, and other festive adornments.
The Christmas tree tradition gradually spread to other parts of Europe. By the 18th and 19th centuries, it became popular in countries like France and England. In England, Queen Charlotte, the German wife of King George III, is credited with introducing the Christmas tree to the British court in the early 1800s.

The Christmas tree gained widespread popularity in England when Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert, were depicted in a drawing in 1848 standing with their children around a decorated tree. 
The Christmas Tree thanks to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert
This image was published in "The Illustrated London News," and it played a significant role in popularizing the Christmas tree among the Victorian middle class.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Christmas tree tradition had become firmly established in many Western countries.
The practice of using electric lights, artificial trees, and elaborate decorations became common. Today, Christmas trees are a central part of holiday celebrations in many cultures around the world.

As societies become more interconnected due to globalization, cultural practices often cross borders.

If the Christmas tree has evolved from ancient pagan rituals to a beloved symbol of the Christmas holiday, influenced significantly by German customs and popularized by royal figures like Queen Victoria, the adoption of Christmas trees in various cultures, including in predominantly Muslim countries, reflects a broader trend of cultural exchange and globalization. 
The Christmas tree, originally a Christian symbol, has been embraced in various forms by people who may not identify with the religious aspects of Christmas. In many cases, the tree has come to symbolize the winter season, festivity, and communal celebration rather than its Christian origins.

In some Muslim-majority countries, the concept of celebrating "Winter Holidays" or "New Year" has emerged.
These celebrations may include the decoration of Christmas trees, lights, and other festive adornments. This trend can be seen in countries such as Turkey, Lebanon, and even parts of the Middle East, where cultural practices blend with local customs and traditions.

The secularization of holiday traditions allows individuals from different backgrounds to participate in festive activities without necessarily adhering to the religious significance. For many, the Christmas tree represents a time of joy, family gatherings, and community spirit, rather than a religious observance.

The global commercialization of Christmas has played a significant role in the spread of Christmas-related symbols and practices.
Retailers and companies often promote holiday-themed products, including Christmas trees, regardless of the cultural or religious context. This commercialization has made festive decorations accessible and appealing to a wider audience.

In various regions, the Christmas tree may be adapted to fit local customs and traditions. For instance, in some countries, people may decorate trees with local ornaments, colors, or symbols that resonate more with their cultural identity while still embracing the general idea of a festive tree.

As societies continue to evolve, the meaning and significance of such traditions may further transform, creating a rich tapestry of shared experiences but the Christmas Tree, enduring presence in holiday celebrations will always reflect its significance as a symbol of joy, hope, and the spirit of giving. ​​
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QUEEN VICTORIA AND THE EVOLUTION OF NATURAL PERFUMES

29/10/2024

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Queen Victoria
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The Victorian era, spanning from 1837 to 1901, was a time of significant cultural and social change in England. One aspect that reflected these changes was the strict usage rules for perfumes. Etiquette dictated that perfumes should be worn only in moderation; for example, only a few drops were permitted on a handkerchief, but never directly on the skin. This practice was indicative of the period's emphasis on modesty and propriety.

Queen Victoria herself played a pivotal role in shaping the fragrance trends of her time. Following her marriage to Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg in 1840, she introduced the custom of using shawls scented with patchouli. This fragrant fabric became a fashionable accessory among the upper classes, symbolizing both elegance and the burgeoning interest in more exotic scents. The use of patchouli, a scent derived from the leaves of the patchouli plant, reflected a growing fascination with natural and earthy fragrances.  Only a few drops on shawl or an handkerchief were allowed but never on a person.
Parfum pour mouchoir - Collection Creezy Courtoy
Collection Creezy Courtoy
The marriage also brought with it the introduction of new customs and traditions into British society. Notably, Victoria popularized the Christmas tree tradition, a custom she embraced from her German roots. This festive practice not only transformed holiday celebrations but also infused homes with the refreshing scents of nature. Fir trees, adorned with ornaments, spread the aroma of pine, which was often complemented by the warm, spicy notes of cinnamon and clove, alongside the comforting smell of candle wax. 
This blend of natural scents contributed to the cozy and inviting atmosphere of Victorian homes during the festive season.

As Queen Victoria's influence extended beyond Britain, her connection with European royalty, particularly Louis-Philippe, King of France, facilitated the spread of Victorian perfumed fashion across the continent. The era was marked by a calm and reflective approach to fragrances, which were often seen as luxury items rather than necessities. 
As the 19th century progressed, perfumes transitioned from being essential for masking odors to becoming luxurious toilet accessories reserved for the elite.

During this time, English perfumes gained a reputation for their quality and sophistication, leading to their sale in France at exorbitant prices. The Great London Exhibition of 1851 was a significant milestone for the perfume industry, offering a platform for English perfumers to showcase their creations to the world. This event not only highlighted the craftsmanship involved in perfume-making but also allowed natural perfumes to gain international acclaim.

Queen Victoria's reign always fascinated me. It marked a transformative period for natural perfumes, characterized by a delicate balance of propriety and luxury.
The introduction of new customs, the embrace of natural scents, and the establishment of perfume as a symbol of status shaped the fragrance landscape of the time. 
As a result, the Victorian era left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery, influencing practices that continue to resonate in modern fragrance culture.

If you are passionate about perfume history, consider becoming a Perfume History Teacher or enhancing your knowledge for your perfumery business by enrolling in Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History course.
​​.
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PRESERVING CHILDREN OLFACTORY SENSE

27/6/2024

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By Creezy Courtoy,  Olfaction Training Expert
Preserving Children Olfactory Sense
The olfactory sense is the first sense to be developed in the foetus.
It starts during week 7.  It is  also the sense that arrives at maturity before the others during week 25. Immersed in amniotic liquid, the foetus swims in a bath of emanations and swallows four to five quarts of flavoured water per day.  Before their first feeding, newborns show attraction for their own amniotic liquid and keeps this preference for the one or two days required to adapt to the new food source..  
Strongly flavoured foods, such as cumin, ginger, anise, when consumed by pregnant women can contribute to an interesting prenatal olfactory experience for the child.  
​
The olfactory sense presents an important development in infant behaviour.
The first odour discerned by newborns is the smell of their mother, and it is that smell which will determine their behaviour towards others. The mother not only shares genes with her child, but also shares phenotypic features that are smells.   The olfactory sense of newborns is certainly their most developed sense. It guides the child, and the messages they receive make them feel secure. 
Only a few days after their birth, babies begin using their noses to receive all emanations passing around them.  Their smell is so sharp that they encounter all odours, smells that we are not able to smell anymore.  Their olfactory sense is so much more sensitive than that of an adult. Even though they do not yet know how to express themselves verbally to communicate their senses, newborns react to odours through motor reactions of the respiratory or cardiac rhythm changes.  
Babies less than two weeks old orient themselves automatically towards maternal odours.  They will learn to recognize their mother by her smell, which they will prefer to any other smell and will bond with it; this process gives them the security they need to live. 

It could be said that newborns “see” with their noses.  
When they grow older, children will use their sight as their primary sense and the olfactory sense appears last.  This is why it is important to preserve their olfactory sense, encouraging them to smell as often possible. This will prevent them to lose this important sense and feel insecure in the future. 
“Les Ateliers des Petits Nez” (Workshops for Little Noses) pilot project proposes olfactory menus to nurseries and kindergartens.
With the support and the involvement of master chefs, IPF proposed the food needs of the child and to the development of their olfactory perceptions. Menus should comply with local dietary directives and also budgetary and organisational instructions. 

Menus are composed such in a way, not to mix ingredients. 
They can be ground, but only ground separately to not mingle fragrances, allowing children to discover them one by one.
Chefs are different for each country, so in order to respect the children’s food culture, in our course we don't give you recipes but we will list the ailments adapted to baby and child development.
It has been proven scientifically that the sense of taste is 85% olfactory. This training will not only preserve and awaken children’s olfactory sense, but also their tasting curiosity and a good food habit.
​Children will then learn from the youngest age to associate all of their senses together starting from the olfactory sense.

More info about the course

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