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SPAIN, A FORGOTTEN LEGACY - PART 3

29/4/2025

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Spanish Scented Leather Gloves Creezy Courtoy's Collection
Spanish Scented Leather Gloves Creezy Courtoy's Collection
Part 3: Scented Leather
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The rich tradition of scented leather, also called Spanish Skin, has roots that intertwine with the grandeur of Spain’s cultural evolution from the medieval period through to the Renaissance. This era not only celebrated artistry and innovation but also marked the rise of perfumed skins as a luxurious symbol among the European aristocracy. 
During the Caliphate of Cordoba, which flourished from 711 to 1031 AD, the Iberian Peninsula became a melting pot of knowledge and practices derived from various civilizations, including the Arabs. It was during this time that the techniques for distilling flowers and extracting fragrances were refined, laying the groundwork for the future of perfumed leather.

Spanish Origins in Scented Leather
The tradition of perfuming leather began in Spain during the Middle Ages and flourished during the Renaissance. The Spanish developed techniques for incorporating aromatic oils into leather, especially gloves, which became a fashionable accessory among the European aristocracy. The knowledge of floral distillation was inherited from the Arab influence during the Caliphate of Cordoba, creating a rich base for the art of fragrance. 

The tradition of incorporating scent into leather, particularly gloves, emerged as a luxurious practice amongst the aristocratic class in Spain. The blending of rich, aromatic oils with carefully crafted leather not only elevated its aesthetic appeal but also served practical purposes, such as masking less pleasant odors. This was crucial in an era when bathing was infrequent, and personal hygiene practices were vastly different from today.

The Renaissance Influence
The 16th century marked a pivotal moment for scented leather, particularly with the influence of Catherine de Medici. Upon her marriage to the future King Henry II of France, Catherine brought with her a wealth of knowledge from Italy and the tradition of perfumed gloves. This not only popularized Spanish leather across France but also triggered a fashion trend that spread throughout Europe. The nobility soon began to differentiate themselves through their use of scented gloves, leading to an explosion of demand for Spanish skins, which were praised for their quality and fragrance.
Anne d'Autriche
Anne d'Autriche
The Court of Louis XIII and the Legacy of Anne d’Autriche
The allure of scented leather continued to flourish at the Court of Louis XIII in the 17th century, largely influenced by Anne d’Autriche, a Spanish princess and wife of Louis XIII. Her roots in Spanish culture reintroduced the tradition of perfumed gloves to the French court, along with the science of floral cultivation and the art of distillation. Under her influence, the practice of scenting leather became further entrenched in European fashion, evolving into elaborate rituals of personal care.
Anne’s presence at court not only extended the reach of Spanish leather but also solidified the perception of perfume as an essential accessory for both men and women. The enchanting fragrances infused in gloves, hair, and garments allowed the aristocracy to showcase their status while indulging in the sensory pleasures of scent at the court.
To scent the castle rooms, she introduced to France small cages containing little birds made of scented pastes called “Oiselets de Chypre” (Little Birds of Cyprus). Louis XIII recommended them to purify the atmosphere and as protection from epidemics.
Scented skins were prohibitively expensive, but they were very fashionable and there were plenty of recipes for perfuming them. It was not so much by taste they were perfumed, but by necessity, the skin was often badly tanned and their odor was obnoxious and unbearable.
To get rid of the odor, strong and long-lasting essences were required or powerful perfumes such as musk, civet and amber. Animal materials were highly prized and fell into the composition of most perfumes; they were considered to be enchanting and aphrodisiac.
It was the fashion of Spanish skins and everything was perfumed from four-poster beds, fans, books and even pets.
With her death, Anne did not leave behind any less than 350 pairs of gloves. Half of them were made of Spanish leather and each of them was scented with different fragrances.

As the taste for scented gloves and leather products grew, it is only in the 17th century perfumers in Grasse began to cultivate flowers specifically for the purpose of fragrance. The region's climate and soil proved conducive to the growth of various aromatic plants, such as jasmine, roses, and lavender.  Louis XIII, introduced the title of “Master Glovemaker-Perfumer” in 1614 for a true corporation and statutes approved by the Provence Parliament in 1729, this new corporation gradually detached from tannery and finally stopped in 1759.
Spanish Skin
In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course
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SPAIN, A FORGOTTEN LEGACY - PART 2

31/3/2025

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Spain, forgotten legacy - Part 2

Part 2 - The Age of Exploration

By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
Spain was one of the main supply channels for perfumery products in the 15th, 16th and 17th Centuries. 
In the precedent episode, we saw how the Arabs brought with them advanced knowledge of alchemy and distillation, which was crucial for the development of perfumes. The way they introduced new ingredients and techniques, influencing the European approach to perfumery.  They brought with them the art of perfume and the science of perfumery, the culture of flowers and raw material for perfumery. This period saw advancements in the methods of extracting and blending fragrances.  

While Spain's climate and geography were ideal for cultivating aromatic plants and flowers, such as orange blossoms, jasmine, and rosemary, the country also played a pivotal role in global trade. 
In this episode, we will discover what made Spain even more powerful playing a major role on the Perfume Roads.
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Recall that Venice played an important role in the trade of raw material but at the age of maritime exploration, they never thought Portugal would invest seeking new trade routes and expanding its influence.
Before the Portuguese opened new sea routes, Venice relied on overland trade routes, such as the Perfume Road and other connections through the Middle East. The Portuguese sea route offered a more efficient and less costly alternative, diminishing the importance of these overland paths.
Spanish Empire
First Spanish and Portuguese Empires XV-XVII Centuries: Orange: Spanish Empire - Violet: Portuguese Empire - Green: French and English Possessions.
The landmark journey of Vasco da Gama in 1497-1498 around the Cape of Good Hope to India was pivotal. This sea route allowed the Portuguese to access the rich spice markets of Asia directly, bypassing overland trade routes dominated by Venetian and Middle Eastern merchants.
The direct sea route to Asia meant that spices and other goods could be brought to Europe more cheaply and in larger quantities. The Portuguese could therefore offer better prices, eroding Venice's monopoly and competitive edge.
Portugal established a series of fortified trading posts along the coasts of Africa and Asia. Places like Goa, Malacca, and Hormuz became key centers for controlling the spice trade.
They also developed superior navigational techniques and shipbuilding technologies, such as the use of the caravel, which allowed them to undertake longer sea voyages safely.

Lisbon replaced Venice and became the continent’s larger market for spices and perfumes thanks to its tremendous naval power and to the Portuguese who were excellent navigators. 
But the Portuguese colonial empire was short-lived. The incompetence of Portuguese monarchs led Spain to militarily occupy Portugal in 1580 and Spain took control of Portugal overseas colonies and their trade.
During this period (the Iberian Union from 1580 till 1640), Philip II of Spain became the King of Portugal, allowing the Spanish Crown to control and benefit from raw material in provenance of a vast colonial empire, which included territories in Africa, Asia and the Americas including the spice and perfume trade roads.
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The 15th, 16th, 17th and the first part of the 18th Centuries were marked by intense traffic on the Eastern Seas where Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, English and French were competing for raw materials.
Spain used dynastic marriages and diplomacy to strenghthen its trade networks and stabilize its trade interests across Europe, insuring a steady flow of goods.
Spanish explorers brought back exotic spices and botanicals from the New World and the East Indies, which enriched the European perfume palette. This exchange led to the introduction of new scents and materials that were incorporated into European perfumes.

Check our next Episode: Spain a Forgotten Legacy Part 2

In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's 
World Perfume History Course
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Chocolate and Scents

29/12/2024

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Scents and Chocolate
Copyright photo Angelina Padron
 By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
If you love perfumes, you probably also love food, pastries and chocolates as the sense of taste is 85% olfactive.
Chocolate's origins trace back to ancient civilizations like the Maya and Aztecs, who revered cacao not only as a food but as a sacred substance.
They prepared a frothy beverage infused with spices, often enjoyed during ceremonial rituals and social gatherings, highlighting the deep connection between chocolate and the human experience
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In South American countries, particularly in places like Peru and Ecuador, chocolate is deeply embedded in cultural traditions.
Cacao ceremonies have been practiced for centuries, where the preparation and sharing of chocolate are seen as sacred rituals that foster connection and community.  During these ceremonies, raw cacao is often blended with natural sweeteners and spices, creating a rich beverage that is consumed in a communal setting. Participants are encouraged to express gratitude and intentions, making the experience both spiritual and sensory. The act of drinking chocolate becomes a means to enhance emotional well-being, promote mindfulness, and connect with the earth’s gifts. These ceremonies serve not only as a celebration of cacao but also as a reminder of the importance of community and connection in our lives. They highlight the transformative power of chocolate, especially when paired with aromatic scents that engage the senses and promote a feeling of harmony

If tea, coffee and chocolate appear for the first time at the Court at the time of the marriage of Louis XIV with Marie Thérèse d'Autriche, it is only at the time of Louis XV that hot chocolate arrived at the French Court promoted by the well known Marquise de Pompadour.

In recent years, the art of infusing chocolate with various scents has gained popularity, not only for culinary innovation but also for enhancing well-being. The practice of combining chocolate with aromatic spices and fruits creates a multisensory experience that can uplift the spirit and promote relaxation.

The fusion of chocolate with spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and chili has roots in traditional recipes where these ingredients were believed to have health benefits.

The Wellness Benefits of Scented Chocolate
The infusion of scents into chocolate not only elevates its flavor but also enhances its benefits. Aromatherapy principles suggest that certain scents can influence mood and well-being. When combined with the natural properties of chocolate, this can create a powerful experience for both body and mind. The act of savoring chocolate infused with delightful fragrances can stimulate the release of endorphins, enhancing feelings of happiness and relaxation. Moreover, the antioxidants found in dark chocolate, paired with the health benefits of various scents, create a delicious avenue towards wellness.

Cinnamon, for instance, adds warmth and sweetness while being known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Chili brings a hint of heat, which can boost metabolism and enhance mood.
Basil and Yuzu: This intriguing combination brings a fresh, herbal note to chocolate. Basil, often associated with tranquility and balance, pairs beautifully with the zesty brightness of yuzu, a citrus fruit. The result is a unique flavor profile that invigorates the senses and promotes a sense of well-being
Chai Infusion: The comforting blend of chai spices—cardamom, ginger, cloves, and black pepper—infused in chocolate can evoke feelings of warmth and nostalgia. This combination not only delights the palate but also offers antioxidant benefits, thanks to the spices, making it a perfect treat for relaxation and rejuvenation

Therefore, if you are perfumer, don't hesitate to associate chocolate and scents and, 
to everyone, don't feel guilty anymore, eating chocolate as it is good for you!
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THE CHRISTMAS TREE RICH HISTORY

27/11/2024

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The Christmas Tree Rich History
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The Christmas tree has a rich history that dates back centuries, with its origins often traced to ancient pagan traditions. 
The use of evergreen trees and plants during winter solstice celebrations predates Christianity.  Ancient Egyptians, for example, used palm fronds to symbolize the triumph of life over death during the winter solstice. Similarly, the Druids in ancient Britain and the Romans used evergreen boughs to decorate their homes during the winter months.
The modern Christmas tree tradition is widely believed to have originated in Germany in the 16th century. It is said that devout Christians began bringing decorated trees into their homes as a symbol of faith.

The earliest documented use of a Christmas tree in a home was in 1570 in the town of Strasbourg.
Initially, trees were decorated with apples, nuts, and paper flowers. Over time, the decorations evolved to include candles, which represented the light of Christ, and later, glass ornaments, tinsel, and other festive adornments.
The Christmas tree tradition gradually spread to other parts of Europe. By the 18th and 19th centuries, it became popular in countries like France and England. In England, Queen Charlotte, the German wife of King George III, is credited with introducing the Christmas tree to the British court in the early 1800s.

The Christmas tree gained widespread popularity in England when Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert, were depicted in a drawing in 1848 standing with their children around a decorated tree. 
The Christmas Tree thanks to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert
This image was published in "The Illustrated London News," and it played a significant role in popularizing the Christmas tree among the Victorian middle class.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Christmas tree tradition had become firmly established in many Western countries.
The practice of using electric lights, artificial trees, and elaborate decorations became common. Today, Christmas trees are a central part of holiday celebrations in many cultures around the world.

As societies become more interconnected due to globalization, cultural practices often cross borders.

If the Christmas tree has evolved from ancient pagan rituals to a beloved symbol of the Christmas holiday, influenced significantly by German customs and popularized by royal figures like Queen Victoria, the adoption of Christmas trees in various cultures, including in predominantly Muslim countries, reflects a broader trend of cultural exchange and globalization. 
The Christmas tree, originally a Christian symbol, has been embraced in various forms by people who may not identify with the religious aspects of Christmas. In many cases, the tree has come to symbolize the winter season, festivity, and communal celebration rather than its Christian origins.

In some Muslim-majority countries, the concept of celebrating "Winter Holidays" or "New Year" has emerged.
These celebrations may include the decoration of Christmas trees, lights, and other festive adornments. This trend can be seen in countries such as Turkey, Lebanon, and even parts of the Middle East, where cultural practices blend with local customs and traditions.

The secularization of holiday traditions allows individuals from different backgrounds to participate in festive activities without necessarily adhering to the religious significance. For many, the Christmas tree represents a time of joy, family gatherings, and community spirit, rather than a religious observance.

The global commercialization of Christmas has played a significant role in the spread of Christmas-related symbols and practices.
Retailers and companies often promote holiday-themed products, including Christmas trees, regardless of the cultural or religious context. This commercialization has made festive decorations accessible and appealing to a wider audience.

In various regions, the Christmas tree may be adapted to fit local customs and traditions. For instance, in some countries, people may decorate trees with local ornaments, colors, or symbols that resonate more with their cultural identity while still embracing the general idea of a festive tree.

As societies continue to evolve, the meaning and significance of such traditions may further transform, creating a rich tapestry of shared experiences but the Christmas Tree, enduring presence in holiday celebrations will always reflect its significance as a symbol of joy, hope, and the spirit of giving. ​​
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QUEEN VICTORIA AND THE EVOLUTION OF NATURAL PERFUMES

29/10/2024

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Queen Victoria
By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The Victorian era, spanning from 1837 to 1901, was a time of significant cultural and social change in England. One aspect that reflected these changes was the strict usage rules for perfumes. Etiquette dictated that perfumes should be worn only in moderation; for example, only a few drops were permitted on a handkerchief, but never directly on the skin. This practice was indicative of the period's emphasis on modesty and propriety.

Queen Victoria herself played a pivotal role in shaping the fragrance trends of her time. Following her marriage to Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg in 1840, she introduced the custom of using shawls scented with patchouli. This fragrant fabric became a fashionable accessory among the upper classes, symbolizing both elegance and the burgeoning interest in more exotic scents. The use of patchouli, a scent derived from the leaves of the patchouli plant, reflected a growing fascination with natural and earthy fragrances.  Only a few drops on shawl or an handkerchief were allowed but never on a person.
Parfum pour mouchoir - Collection Creezy Courtoy
Collection Creezy Courtoy
The marriage also brought with it the introduction of new customs and traditions into British society. Notably, Victoria popularized the Christmas tree tradition, a custom she embraced from her German roots. This festive practice not only transformed holiday celebrations but also infused homes with the refreshing scents of nature. Fir trees, adorned with ornaments, spread the aroma of pine, which was often complemented by the warm, spicy notes of cinnamon and clove, alongside the comforting smell of candle wax. 
This blend of natural scents contributed to the cozy and inviting atmosphere of Victorian homes during the festive season.

As Queen Victoria's influence extended beyond Britain, her connection with European royalty, particularly Louis-Philippe, King of France, facilitated the spread of Victorian perfumed fashion across the continent. The era was marked by a calm and reflective approach to fragrances, which were often seen as luxury items rather than necessities. 
As the 19th century progressed, perfumes transitioned from being essential for masking odors to becoming luxurious toilet accessories reserved for the elite.

During this time, English perfumes gained a reputation for their quality and sophistication, leading to their sale in France at exorbitant prices. The Great London Exhibition of 1851 was a significant milestone for the perfume industry, offering a platform for English perfumers to showcase their creations to the world. This event not only highlighted the craftsmanship involved in perfume-making but also allowed natural perfumes to gain international acclaim.

Queen Victoria's reign always fascinated me. It marked a transformative period for natural perfumes, characterized by a delicate balance of propriety and luxury.
The introduction of new customs, the embrace of natural scents, and the establishment of perfume as a symbol of status shaped the fragrance landscape of the time. 
As a result, the Victorian era left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery, influencing practices that continue to resonate in modern fragrance culture.

If you are passionate about perfume history, consider becoming a Perfume History Teacher or enhancing your knowledge for your perfumery business by enrolling in Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History course.
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PRESERVING CHILDREN OLFACTORY SENSE

27/6/2024

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By Creezy Courtoy,  Olfaction Training Expert
Preserving Children Olfactory Sense
The olfactory sense is the first sense to be developed in the foetus.
It starts during week 7.  It is  also the sense that arrives at maturity before the others during week 25. Immersed in amniotic liquid, the foetus swims in a bath of emanations and swallows four to five quarts of flavoured water per day.  Before their first feeding, newborns show attraction for their own amniotic liquid and keeps this preference for the one or two days required to adapt to the new food source..  
Strongly flavoured foods, such as cumin, ginger, anise, when consumed by pregnant women can contribute to an interesting prenatal olfactory experience for the child.  
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The olfactory sense presents an important development in infant behaviour.
The first odour discerned by newborns is the smell of their mother, and it is that smell which will determine their behaviour towards others. The mother not only shares genes with her child, but also shares phenotypic features that are smells.   The olfactory sense of newborns is certainly their most developed sense. It guides the child, and the messages they receive make them feel secure. 
Only a few days after their birth, babies begin using their noses to receive all emanations passing around them.  Their smell is so sharp that they encounter all odours, smells that we are not able to smell anymore.  Their olfactory sense is so much more sensitive than that of an adult. Even though they do not yet know how to express themselves verbally to communicate their senses, newborns react to odours through motor reactions of the respiratory or cardiac rhythm changes.  
Babies less than two weeks old orient themselves automatically towards maternal odours.  They will learn to recognize their mother by her smell, which they will prefer to any other smell and will bond with it; this process gives them the security they need to live. 

It could be said that newborns “see” with their noses.  
When they grow older, children will use their sight as their primary sense and the olfactory sense appears last.  This is why it is important to preserve their olfactory sense, encouraging them to smell as often possible. This will prevent them to lose this important sense and feel insecure in the future. 
“Les Ateliers des Petits Nez” (Workshops for Little Noses) pilot project proposes olfactory menus to nurseries and kindergartens.
With the support and the involvement of master chefs, IPF proposed the food needs of the child and to the development of their olfactory perceptions. Menus should comply with local dietary directives and also budgetary and organisational instructions. 

Menus are composed such in a way, not to mix ingredients. 
They can be ground, but only ground separately to not mingle fragrances, allowing children to discover them one by one.
Chefs are different for each country, so in order to respect the children’s food culture, in our course we don't give you recipes but we will list the ailments adapted to baby and child development.
It has been proven scientifically that the sense of taste is 85% olfactory. This training will not only preserve and awaken children’s olfactory sense, but also their tasting curiosity and a good food habit.
​Children will then learn from the youngest age to associate all of their senses together starting from the olfactory sense.

More info about the course

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FROM HISTORY TO SUCCESS STORY

31/3/2024

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Picture
Vivian Trinh
An Interview by Creezy Courtoy, World Perfume Historian and Anthropologist
The IPF Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy is dedicated to accomplishing two vital goals: firstly, to educate enthusiasts on the art and science of natural perfumery, enabling them to transform their passion into sustainable careers; and secondly, to ensure the rich heritage of perfumery is preserved and passed on to future generations. Understanding the World Perfume History is crucial for any perfumer, not only to enrich their creations with inspired narratives but also to uphold and share this invaluable legacy. 

Now, let's introduce you to Vivian Trinh. Join us as we delve into her story.

1. Could you introduce yourself, including where you reside and your current occupation or activities?
I am Viviane Trinh, an international independent perfumer and scent educator. I'm currently based in Ho Chi Minh city, Vietnam after years of training and working globally. My company's main focus is private R&D services, consultancy and tailored training programs for individuals and entrepreneurs. 
Settling down in a city that's not my homeland, with almost an opposite lifestyle compared to Hanoi - Where I was born - is a decision that requires a lot of my nerve! There are more and more people doing this, but it was definitely not something common back then! 
I was formally trained in Grasse focusing on the art and technique of raw materials and fragrance creation. But it was not enough to become a professional perfumer. I never stop there. For the last decade, I've been doing training and researching work with top perfumers and companies all around the world to collaborate and refine my skill. 

2. Could you share why you chose to study History, particularly what inspired you? Was it a desire to learn more about the history of perfume in your region?
I believe everything has a beginning. In order to master an art form, you have to truly understand it from the root. 
I never hate the fact that I'm almost obsessed with learning new skills and gaining new knowledge for my work as a perfumer. But funny enough, the more I try to move forward with the intention to "change", the more I realize that I'm getting back to the point where everything starts. Lots of the inspiration of our modern fragrances, including the raw material, the formula composition, the packaging or even the branding and marketing is actually nothing new but a more 'dressed up' and creative version of something that has already been done from centuries ago. 
Just like how we all fall in love with that homemade, fragrant herbal bath from our childhood before Chanel No.5, Shalimar and Mitsouko. Those little small scented moments are exactly the reason why I have had such a big love for perfumery since a very young age. Sometimes, I feel like no matter how much I've gained during this journey, I'm still that little girl who immersed herself in that afternoon bath, thinking about how she could get that vintage botanical dictionary from that local no-name bookstore.

3. What is the current state of natural perfumery in your country? What about its heritage? Do people still retain knowledge of their ancestral heritage?
Despite the fact that our country has a rich tradition of using fragrant herbs not just for the purpose of beauty but also for medicinal and the spiritual purposes, I still find the urgent need to maintain the heritage worth considering. It's a bit painful to watch people shutting down their own garden or skipping on preparing natural scented products like tea, herbal bath, traditional medicine recipe, incense etc. because they don't have time or energy. The modern momentum of lifestyle is a challenge for people who still want to commit using the knowledge of their ancestral heritage. 

4. Was the history course effective in reacquainting your country with its heritage related to perfumery?
Education and creative ways of using scent is crucial to keep the heritage alive. I got all of that from the course. 
After joining the history program, I have a deeper understanding of not just my country's heritage related to scent, but also of a more comprehensive view about the world history of perfumery. The course gave me new knowledge about many practices that I thought I already knew by heart. 
It was truly a meaningful experience of reacquainting myself with my country heritage related to perfumery in a totally different way; but much more academic and professional!  
Natural Perfumery Certification
5. Did you find it beneficial and necessary to take the global Perfume History Course? How did it impact you personally, and what changes have you experienced in your life as a result of this course and its certification by the International Perfume Foundation. 
The course gives me extra courage to bring lots of my ideas from a shy scratch to a real product that I can proudly show my clients from time to time. That's priceless. If not to say, one of my career's bliss. 
It's been a very helpful course for me and it did help me so much with my career. I cannot tell you how much it helps me in my perfumery work. 
I'm looking forward to learning more from you and your courses in the future!
I hold your certification in the highest place of my lab!
I have to say that Creezy Courtoy's mentorship during the course was something out of this world. She employed incredible expertise in her teaching. But more than that, Creezy's heart-warming personality and her life-long passion for the art of perfumery was truly the biggest source of motivation for her students! 
My last word is: A special job requires a special mentor, and choosing Creezy's course was a game changing decision for my career. I cannot tell you enough how grateful I am. ​
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Fragrance in the Shadows - PART 1

27/3/2024

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Rose extraction
The Turbulent Journey of French Perfumery Through History
By Creezy Courtoy World History Perfumery Expert and Teacher
Throughout history, humanity's quest to bridge the divine and the earthly realms has often been mediated through the aromatic allure of perfumes and spices. However, this journey has not been without its dark epochs, notably during periods marked by the overwhelming influence of the Catholic Church, such as the Crusades, the medieval era, and the Inquisition. These were times when the Church's supremacy overshadowed even that of monarchs, intertwining religious power with the governance of states, culminating in France's separation of Church and State only in 1905. Such dominance led to the suppression of perfumes for daily use, associating them with witchcraft or frivolous, forbidden indulgences.

Despite these challenges, the evolution of perfumery, much like science, experienced moments of pause rather than a complete halt. Innovative and pragmatic individuals emerged, defying the restrictions to maintain the therapeutic application of perfumes, utilizing flowers, plants, essential oils, aromatic vinegars, and "miraculous waters." Fortunately, these periods of constraint were interspersed with eras of abundance under monarchies that valued luxury and opulence over the Church's austerity.
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The dominion of the Church also impeded the broader progression of the sciences, holding the Bible as the singular path to salvation and often placing it in conflict with reason. Yet within the confines of monasteries, a different story unfolded. Monks became the custodians of ancient knowledge, cultivating medicinal plants and translating the works of Galen, Aristotle, Dioscorides, and Pliny. They preserved the beauty secrets and remedies of Greek and Roman antiquity, enriching them with the synthesis of translated Arabic manuscripts. Some of these recipes bordered on the magical, using ingredients and methods dictated by the movements of celestial bodies.
The School of Salerna
The School of Salerna
The School of Salerno, a beacon of medical education in the 12th century, stood out for its quality of teaching and its secular approach, contrasting with the religious orthodoxy of most Western universities of the time. It honored both Greek and Arabic medical traditions, emphasizing the balance of the body's four humors as the foundation of health. The introduction of distilled alcohol for its revitalizing properties by figures like Raymond Lulle and Arnaud de Villeneuve marked a significant advancement in pharmacy, incorporating distillation into the preparation of remedies and cosmetics.

As perfumers ascended the social ladder, the first universities in Paris, Montpellier, and Padua were established, laying the groundwork for a more structured and secular education system. However, the contrast between the ideals of Salerno and the grim realities of the "Hotels-Dieu" in the West, which were far from the medical sophistication of Arabian hospitals, highlighted the stark differences in healthcare and hygiene practices between the cultures.

This journey through the history of perfumery reveals not only the enduring human fascination with fragrance but also the complex interplay between religion, science, medicine and art. It underscores the resilience of perfumery as an art form, persistently evolving and flourishing despite the shadows cast by periods of suppression and ignorance.
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BOOST YOUR PROFITS FROM AWARDS AND EVENTS

28/2/2024

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New Luxury Awards 2023 Creezy Courtoy, Vedrana Perhoc and Françoise Rapp
New Luxury Awards 2023 Creezy Courtoy, Vedrana Perhoc and Françoise Rapp
By Terry Johnson, IPF Vice Chair, Business and Marketing Expert Teacher
​During 30 years as a marketing consultant, one of the most common mistakes I have seen businesses make has been failing to properly prepare for, attend, and follow-up from an awards or other event.
Yet natural essence events, such as the New Luxury Awards, Perfumery Congress or International Natural Perfumery Summit represent profitable opportunities to network, gain industry insights, and showcase yourself, your company, and your brand. 
For Natural Perfumers or Natural Perfumery Brands, proper event marketing management starts with the decision to attend. Ask yourself: Does the event have the potential to improve my brand? Can my attendance lead to greater and more profitable sales? 
Managing attendance at events properly allows you to reach these and other important goals. Remember, we are in the Natural Essence High-Value Market, where higher prices can be achieved by offering consumers more value. Event attendance demonstrates industry leadership, which has great value to customers looking for companies, people, and brands they can trust and have confidence in. Additionally, being nominated for or winning an award has tremendous consumer value to a perfume brand.
Here are several steps you can take to boost your profits from participation at an event:

Pre-event Planning for Success
  • Set specific goals for attendance including your purpose(s) for being there.
  • Develop a budget for the event as well as a corresponding forecast for sales and profit increases that will occur because of the awards event. Keep in mind that you should be working toward lifetime customers, not just one-time sales. Getting customers is important. Keeping customers is vital!
  • Have printed brand materials available. These could include articles that feature you and your brand, or shots from your website.
  • Develop and print answers to frequently asked questions (FAQ)
  • Some of these materials can be included in Media Kits you can make available during the event. 
  • Contact key people to set up meetings during the event.
  • Don’t forget to take plenty of your business cards and an ink pen or two. More than you think you will need. 

Event Participation
  • Give out and get business cards from everyone you meet. Make notes about what you discussed on the back of their business card after meeting them.
  • Remember, you are at this event to showcase you, your company, and your brand, and that means receptions and dinners should be all business!
  • Get photos or videos of yourself with groups of people. Make sure you get business cards from all the people in each photo. If they don’t have cards, put their name, title, and contact information on the back of your card. If someone takes a photo of you in a group, get their card and ask them to furnish you with the photo.
  • At the end of each day, review your notes, list who you contacted, and what you discussed, and ideas you have while they are still fresh in your mind.

Profitable Post-Event Strategies

Post-event follow-up is the most important part of event attendance, but it is also the least understood by most attendees. Many returning to work after an event fail to find the time to adequately follow up as they should for such a high marketing priority.
  • First, review all business cards and notes from discussions and then determine what follow-up should be scheduled.
  • Check your original list of contacts for the event. Schedule follow-up contacts for those you missed connecting with.
  • Write up follow-up stories in blogs and on website pages. Use photos or video you obtained from the event. Make sure you use names, titles, and organizations correctly.
  • Connect with any media you spoke with at the event. Will they be able to include you, your company, and your brand in a story about the event? Will you be able to get photos they took of you in a group with names, titles, and companies?
  • Measure sales resulting from event. Remember that sales strategies should be directed at getting lifetime customers, rather than one-time sales. One customer can represent thousands of dollars over a lifetime.
  • Finally, objectively critique your performance at the event. How would you improve your participation next time? 
Practice makes perfect.
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THE IMPORTANCE OF DETAILS IN PERFUMERY

30/12/2023

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The Roy Soleil, 1946, Salvator Dali Design, Baccarat crystal for Elsa Schiapparelli,
The Roy Soleil by Salvator Dali, 1946, Baccarat crystal for Elsa Schiapparelli
By Creezy Courtoy, IPF Chair
The Devil is in Details*
Perfume, a symbol of luxury and elegance, captures our senses and evokes emotions like no other product can. In the world of perfumery, where every detail matters, it can be challenging to navigate the intricacies of staying relevant and successful. As a French outsider, I bring a unique perspective to your brand, offering a fresh lens to evaluate your strategy and branding. In this article, I will delve into the significance of details in perfumery and extend a personal offer of a free 30-minute coaching session to help refine your approach.

The Power of Details
In the realm of luxury goods, attention to detail sets apart the exceptional from the ordinary. Perfume, being an embodiment of luxury, demands meticulous craftsmanship and an unwavering commitment to excellence. Every aspect, from the carefully selected ingredients to the composition of the bottle, marketing and packaging, contributes to the overall experience and perception of the brand.

The Role of Branding
Branding plays a pivotal role in establishing a perfume's identity and resonating with its target audience. It encompasses various elements, such as the brand name, logo, packaging design, website, advertising campaigns, and even the emotions associated with the brand. A successful branding strategy should encapsulate the essence of the perfume, conveying its unique characteristics and values to consumers.

The Value of an Outsider's Perspective
Being an outsider to your brand, a teacher and a luxury expert, I bring a fresh and unbiased viewpoint. As a French individual born in a family in the perfume industry, I am intimately acquainted with the rich heritage and tradition of perfumery in my culture. This background allows me to offer insights and suggestions that may have been overlooked from within the industry. With a critical eye, I can evaluate your current strategy and branding, identifying areas of improvement and potential opportunities for growth.

A Personal Offer: Free 30-Minute Coaching Session
To demonstrate the value of my perspective, I extend a personal offer to you: a complimentary 30-minute coaching session. During this session, we can delve into your current strategy, brand positioning, and explore potential avenues for improvement. Together, we can analyze your target market, evaluate your competition, and discuss ways to enhance your brand's appeal and success.

Perfume is a realm where attention to detail reigns supreme.
​To thrive in this industry, it is crucial to have a well-defined branding strategy that captivates consumers and sets your brand apart. As an outsider and a French individual, I offer a fresh perspective on your perfume brand, enabling us to examine your strategy and branding with a discerning eye. Don't miss this opportunity to gain valuable insights and refine your approach to achieve even greater success in the world of luxury perfumery.

*"The devil is in the details." comes from a French expression: "Le dibble est dans les details". This expression conveys the idea that small, seemingly insignificant details can have a significant impact or cause unforeseen problems.
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