 Scented water sprinkler in silverplate used for religious ceremonies with original traces of gilding and coloring. Creezy Courtoy Collection By Creezy Courtoy Perfume Historian, Anthropologist and Teacher India, renowned as the "Country of a Thousand Perfumes," is a vast land with a rich history deeply entwined with the art of perfumery. This title is well-earned due to the country's extensive cultural rites and religious traditions, which have fostered a profound appreciation for fragrances. Indian literature and daily life are richly imbued with poetic, perfumed legends, and the rituals involve offerings of flowers and scents to the gods as tributes during religious festivals. In ceremonies, statues of deities are cleansed with scented waters, and spaces are perfumed with rosewater, vetiver, saffron, and blanketed with blossoms. Life's pivotal events in India, from weddings to funerals, are enveloped in aromatic smoke, symbolizing a continuity of tradition. The bustling markets of India are a sensory feast, full of vibrant colors and the intoxicating aromas of countless spices and perfumes. Incense burns in abundance, and gifts of flowers and fragrances are tokens of hospitality and friendship. Perfume, known as "attar" in Hindi, plays an essential role in everyday life, symbolizing health, purity, beauty, and spiritual virtues.  In the mythology, Kama, god of love, owns an arch with five arrows all ending with a different flower. Each of them pierces the heart of the victim through its five senses. The most precious of these flowers is (without question) jasmine that symbolizes hope, happiness and love. Indian women traditionally use kohl to enhance their eyes and indulge in scented baths, anointing themselves with oils like rosewood and tuberose, setting their hair with jasmine, and adorning their faces with floral nectars. Perfumery is esteemed alongside science, medicine, and arts; according to ancient texts, it fulfills the earthly goals of religious devotion, material prosperity, and sensory delight. Temples, or "gandha-kuti," are perfumed rooms dedicated to worship. Vedic scriptures, dating back 3,500 years, describe the fumigation of aromatic woods, linking perfumery with spiritual practices. Each God in Hindu mythology is associated with specific flowers, which devotees offer during worship. India abounds with raw materials essential for perfumery, including mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, ginger, lemongrass, pepper, basil, patchouli, vetiver, jasmine, tuberose, roses.... Among these, sandalwood, considered the sacred national tree, has been cultivated for over 4,000 years. Its aromatic wood is essential for religious ceremonies and holds significant cultural value. The art of distillation, possibly refined under the influence of Persian advancements, is attributed to Indian origins. According to legend, the Indian princess Nūr Jahān discovered the process leading to modern distillation techniques. Akbar, the "Perfume Emperor," who ruled from 1556 to 1605, was passionate about scents, leading to a flourishing trade in floral essences at his court. Fragrance in India is not just a sensory delight but a tapestry woven into the very fabric of its culture, playing a crucial role in its spiritual, social, and economic life, extending its influence throughout Southeast Asia. Creezy Courtoy is teaching World Perfume History Course, Anthropology of Perfume and Natural Olfaction Training
0 Comments
 By Creezy Courtoy, IPF Chair and Anthropologist Exploring Traditions In the 18th and 19th centuries, a fascinating tradition emerged in rural communities across Europe and beyond: the practice of informing bees when a member of the household passed away. This custom, steeped in folklore and superstition, highlights the deep connection between humans and nature, as well as the cultural significance of bees in the lives of our ancestors. A Conversation with Nature The act of speaking to bees during times of mourning was believed to ensure that the bees would not abandon their hives. Many people viewed bees as not only valuable pollinators but also as protective spirits of the household. By informing the bees of a death, it was thought that the bees would understand the solemnity of the moment and that the family could maintain good fortune and continued prosperity through their honey production. This ritual often took place during funerals, where a family member, close friend, or neighbor would softly approach the hives and quietly share the news of the passing. Phrases such as “Hive, your master has died” were commonly uttered. The belief was that if bees were not told, they would sense the loss in their own way, leading to a decline in honey production, swarming, or even the death of the bees.  Cultural Significance and Variations The tradition of telling bees was particularly prevalent in England and parts of Wales, although variations of the practice existed in other cultures as well. In some regions, it was customary to veil the hives during the mourning period or to place a black cloth over them to signify the death. These practices are rooted in a deep respect for bees as integral members of the ecosystem, deserving of communication and care. In addition to the act of telling bees, some cultures believed that bees could carry messages to the deceased. The notion that these creatures had a unique connection to the spiritual realm added an extra layer of significance to the tradition. The simple act of conversing with these tiny beings symbolized a reverence for life and death, and an acknowledgment of the interconnectedness of all living things. Decline of the Tradition As societies evolved and industrialization took hold, many of these rural customs began to fade. The growing shift towards modern agricultural practices and the increasing distance from nature diminished the significance of this practice. However, the fascination with bees has sparked a resurgence in interest about their ecological importance, prompting many to reflect on the historical roles they played in our lives. Today, while the tradition of telling bees may no longer be widely practiced, it serves as a poignant reminder of our relationship with the natural world. As we continue to face challenges related to bee populations and environmental sustainability, revisiting these traditions can inspire a renewed appreciation for these vital pollinators.   Spanish Scented Leather Gloves Creezy Courtoy's Collection Part 3: Scented Leather By Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist The rich tradition of scented leather, also called Spanish Skin, has roots that intertwine with the grandeur of Spain’s cultural evolution from the medieval period through to the Renaissance. This era not only celebrated artistry and innovation but also marked the rise of perfumed skins as a luxurious symbol among the European aristocracy. During the Caliphate of Cordoba, which flourished from 711 to 1031 AD, the Iberian Peninsula became a melting pot of knowledge and practices derived from various civilizations, including the Arabs. It was during this time that the techniques for distilling flowers and extracting fragrances were refined, laying the groundwork for the future of perfumed leather. Spanish Origins in Scented Leather The tradition of perfuming leather began in Spain during the Middle Ages and flourished during the Renaissance. The Spanish developed techniques for incorporating aromatic oils into leather, especially gloves, which became a fashionable accessory among the European aristocracy. The knowledge of floral distillation was inherited from the Arab influence during the Caliphate of Cordoba, creating a rich base for the art of fragrance. The tradition of incorporating scent into leather, particularly gloves, emerged as a luxurious practice amongst the aristocratic class in Spain. The blending of rich, aromatic oils with carefully crafted leather not only elevated its aesthetic appeal but also served practical purposes, such as masking less pleasant odors. This was crucial in an era when bathing was infrequent, and personal hygiene practices were vastly different from today. The Renaissance Influence The 16th century marked a pivotal moment for scented leather, particularly with the influence of Catherine de Medici. Upon her marriage to the future King Henry II of France, Catherine brought with her a wealth of knowledge from Italy and the tradition of perfumed gloves. This not only popularized Spanish leather across France but also triggered a fashion trend that spread throughout Europe. The nobility soon began to differentiate themselves through their use of scented gloves, leading to an explosion of demand for Spanish skins, which were praised for their quality and fragrance.  Anne d'Autriche The Court of Louis XIII and the Legacy of Anne d’Autriche The allure of scented leather continued to flourish at the Court of Louis XIII in the 17th century, largely influenced by Anne d’Autriche, a Spanish princess and wife of Louis XIII. Her roots in Spanish culture reintroduced the tradition of perfumed gloves to the French court, along with the science of floral cultivation and the art of distillation. Under her influence, the practice of scenting leather became further entrenched in European fashion, evolving into elaborate rituals of personal care. Anne’s presence at court not only extended the reach of Spanish leather but also solidified the perception of perfume as an essential accessory for both men and women. The enchanting fragrances infused in gloves, hair, and garments allowed the aristocracy to showcase their status while indulging in the sensory pleasures of scent at the court. To scent the castle rooms, she introduced to France small cages containing little birds made of scented pastes called “Oiselets de Chypre” (Little Birds of Cyprus). Louis XIII recommended them to purify the atmosphere and as protection from epidemics. Scented skins were prohibitively expensive, but they were very fashionable and there were plenty of recipes for perfuming them. It was not so much by taste they were perfumed, but by necessity, the skin was often badly tanned and their odor was obnoxious and unbearable. To get rid of the odor, strong and long-lasting essences were required or powerful perfumes such as musk, civet and amber. Animal materials were highly prized and fell into the composition of most perfumes; they were considered to be enchanting and aphrodisiac. It was the fashion of Spanish skins and everything was perfumed from four-poster beds, fans, books and even pets. With her death, Anne did not leave behind any less than 350 pairs of gloves. Half of them were made of Spanish leather and each of them was scented with different fragrances. As the taste for scented gloves and leather products grew, it is only in the 17th century perfumers in Grasse began to cultivate flowers specifically for the purpose of fragrance. The region's climate and soil proved conducive to the growth of various aromatic plants, such as jasmine, roses, and lavender. Louis XIII, introduced the title of “Master Glovemaker-Perfumer” in 1614 for a true corporation and statutes approved by the Provence Parliament in 1729, this new corporation gradually detached from tannery and finally stopped in 1759.  In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course
 By Terry Johnson, Business and Marketing Expert and Teacher Natural essences, and the flowers and plants they come from, are some of Mother Earth’s greatest gifts, benefiting human health and happiness for centuries. Knowing this, aren’t all of us who work with these essences obligated to ensure those benefits continue for our customers, ourselves, our children, and our children’s children? If you are interested in a more sustainable business, here are several steps you can take beginning today: 1. The first step is a personal commitment to sustainability. When we fly, the flight attendant always instructs us to first put our own mask on before helping others. Sustaining Mother Earth begins within ourselves. 2. Next step is to make sustainability part of your Purpose Statement, Mission Statement, and Value Proposition and make sure everyone working with you understands your commitment and what it means to everyone else in the supply chain. 3. Once these commitments are made, begin educating yourself on what sustainability really means for your business, the natural essence supply chain community, and most importantly for establishing and keeping customers for a lifetime. Consumers prefer buying from companies that don’t just sell great products. They are also looking for authenticity, integrity, and transparency. Companies that work with growers and processors that are mindful of the air, water, earth, and the animals and plants that surround them, can help you build trust and confidence with consumers, which is why IPF and other leading experts in essential oils around the world developed Sustainable Essential Oil Standards (SEOS) in 2020. Real sustainability (rather than greenwashing or virtue-signaling) is far more comprehensive than just working with a single program that is environmentally friendly. SEOS breaks down sustainability into 5 Pillars and then expands each of these Pillars into 5 standards per Pillar, totaling 25 separate sustainable standards. 5 Pillars of Sustainability Environmental Sustainability Cultural Sustainability Social Sustainability Distribution and Labeling Sustainability Economic Sustainability Here is a list of benefits SEOS will bring:
You can find out more about sustaining Mother Earth in natural essences by visiting the SEOS website here: https://www.essentialoilstandards.com/  Part 2 - The Age of ExplorationBy Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist Spain was one of the main supply channels for perfumery products in the 15th, 16th and 17th Centuries. In the precedent episode, we saw how the Arabs brought with them advanced knowledge of alchemy and distillation, which was crucial for the development of perfumes. The way they introduced new ingredients and techniques, influencing the European approach to perfumery. They brought with them the art of perfume and the science of perfumery, the culture of flowers and raw material for perfumery. This period saw advancements in the methods of extracting and blending fragrances. While Spain's climate and geography were ideal for cultivating aromatic plants and flowers, such as orange blossoms, jasmine, and rosemary, the country also played a pivotal role in global trade. In this episode, we will discover what made Spain even more powerful playing a major role on the Perfume Roads. Recall that Venice played an important role in the trade of raw material but at the age of maritime exploration, they never thought Portugal would invest seeking new trade routes and expanding its influence. Before the Portuguese opened new sea routes, Venice relied on overland trade routes, such as the Perfume Road and other connections through the Middle East. The Portuguese sea route offered a more efficient and less costly alternative, diminishing the importance of these overland paths.  First Spanish and Portuguese Empires XV-XVII Centuries: Orange: Spanish Empire - Violet: Portuguese Empire - Green: French and English Possessions. The landmark journey of Vasco da Gama in 1497-1498 around the Cape of Good Hope to India was pivotal. This sea route allowed the Portuguese to access the rich spice markets of Asia directly, bypassing overland trade routes dominated by Venetian and Middle Eastern merchants.
The direct sea route to Asia meant that spices and other goods could be brought to Europe more cheaply and in larger quantities. The Portuguese could therefore offer better prices, eroding Venice's monopoly and competitive edge. Portugal established a series of fortified trading posts along the coasts of Africa and Asia. Places like Goa, Malacca, and Hormuz became key centers for controlling the spice trade. They also developed superior navigational techniques and shipbuilding technologies, such as the use of the caravel, which allowed them to undertake longer sea voyages safely. Lisbon replaced Venice and became the continent’s larger market for spices and perfumes thanks to its tremendous naval power and to the Portuguese who were excellent navigators. But the Portuguese colonial empire was short-lived. The incompetence of Portuguese monarchs led Spain to militarily occupy Portugal in 1580 and Spain took control of Portugal overseas colonies and their trade. During this period (the Iberian Union from 1580 till 1640), Philip II of Spain became the King of Portugal, allowing the Spanish Crown to control and benefit from raw material in provenance of a vast colonial empire, which included territories in Africa, Asia and the Americas including the spice and perfume trade roads. The 15th, 16th, 17th and the first part of the 18th Centuries were marked by intense traffic on the Eastern Seas where Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, English and French were competing for raw materials. Spain used dynastic marriages and diplomacy to strenghthen its trade networks and stabilize its trade interests across Europe, insuring a steady flow of goods. Spanish explorers brought back exotic spices and botanicals from the New World and the East Indies, which enriched the European perfume palette. This exchange led to the introduction of new scents and materials that were incorporated into European perfumes. Check our next Episode: Spain a Forgotten Legacy Part 2 In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course  By Terry Johnson Business & Marketing Expert and Teacher Green buds are finally appearing here in the Mojave Desert, a sure signal that spring is on its way! Temperatures are slowly rising, which means much more time outdoors but also reminding us that it is time for some serious Business Spring Cleaning.
Here is my spring-cleaning list of things to do: 1. Dust Off Your Business Plan When was the last time you reviewed your business plan? If your business plan has been collecting dust, spring cleaning is a great time to give it the attention it deserves. Instead of a one-time exercise, think of your business plan as a tool that can help you reevaluate how you’re doing and where you are in your business. As small businesses constantly develop and change, unexpected things happen, and your business plan needs to adapt to these changes. 2. Brush Up on Your Vision, Mission and Value Proposition These important business tools are mechanisms that keep businesses continually focused in the right direction. Does everyone working with you within the natural essence supply chain thoroughly understand them including employees, your accountant, lawyer, banker, suppliers, and customers? 3. Do a Full Sweep of Your Customer List As a small business, your customer list is likely one of your most valuable assets. Are you nurturing and caring for those customers as best you can, or are the responsibilities of running your small business keeping you too distracted? Spring is a great time to check in with customers, past and present. For those you haven’t served in some time, see if they need your services again. While cleaning up your customer list, you can also make a list of potential customers and try to secure new business. Remember, in these post-covid times everyone needs natural essences now more than ever. 3. Scour Your Books Spring is when many small business owners are already getting their financial paperwork and tax documents in order, but it’s also an opportunity to take a step back and do a financial inventory. See where your business stands, review your revenue and expenses and identify areas where you can save. That could even include evaluating your current accounting processes to see if there are ways to make them more efficient. 4. Clean Up Vendor Relationships As part of your spring cleaning, take some time to reconnect with your various vendors to express how important they are to you and how you can work together to improve and develop even more valuable relationships going forward. 5. Spruce Up Your Marketing Strategies Marketing is vital to any small business, and spring is the perfect time to examine and spruce up your marketing strategies. Like your business, marketing tactics are constantly changing, so you must consistently improve your marketing plan. You might research new marketing trends, take a deep dive into social media, or set up new marketing technologies . What marketing efforts are producing the best results? Consider eliminating and replacing any marketing strategies that have not resulted in expected revenues. Spring is a wonderful opportunity to refocus, reevaluate, and strengthen your business going forward for the rest of the year. If you need assistance for your perfume business, follow Terry Johnson's course: Learn Business and Marketing in the essential oil environment.  Part 1 Al-Andalous, Haroun al-Rachid and CordobaBy Creezy Courtoy, Perfume Historian and Anthropologist When we talk about perfume, everyone thinks about Paris as the center of perfumery, and we forget about the whole world of perfume history. I would like to remind everyone the way perfumery entered Europe and the role of Spain in the perfume heritage. It is not an accident that Spain is taking the lead today in the evolution of perfumery. Spain has an important perfume heritage. For the first episode of this new series, I invite you to follow me into the Spanish Middle Ages. The initial invasion of the Iberian Peninsula was led by the Umayyad general Tariq ibn Ziyad. In 711 CE, Muslims swiftly conquered most of the region, establishing control over a large part of what would become Al-Andalus. By the time Haroun al-Rashid began his rule, the Umayyad dynasty had already been overthrown by the Abbasids in a revolution known as the Abbasid Revolution in 750 CE. After this, those Umayyads who escape established their own rule in Spain, with Córdoba as the capital, thus continuing the Islamic presence in the region. Haroun al-Rashid was the fifth caliph of the Abbasid dynasty, ruling from 786 to 809 CE. He is often remembered as one of the most famous and well-regarded caliphs in Islamic history. His reign marked a period of cultural, economic, and scientific flourishing within the Islamic Golden Age. Under his rule, Bagdad became a center of trade and commerce. The capital city was known for its architectural wonders and was a hub for scholars and traders from different cultures and backgrounds. During and after Haroun al-Rashid’s reign, Córdoba emerged as a significant center of Islamic culture and learning. The city became renowned for its advancements in various fields, including medicine, philosophy, and poetry. It was marked by architectural achievements, such as the Great Mosque of Córdoba. Al-Rashid was a patron of the arts and sciences. He encouraged literature, philosophy, and scientific endeavors, which helped to foster a rich cultural environment. The famed collection of stories known as "One Thousand and One Nights" (or "Arabian Nights") was completed during his time, though it is a compilation of tales from various sources. The Abbasid Empire, under Haroun al-Rashid, thrived economically, which fostered trade relations across the Mediterranean. This period saw extensive trade in luxury items, including perfumes and essential oils. Arab merchants were known for their high-quality fragrances, which would find their way into Spain through the Perfume Roads.  Spain became a center for cultural and scientific exchange. The Arabs brought with them advanced knowledge of alchemy and distillation, which was crucial for the development of perfumes. They introduced new ingredients and techniques, influencing the European approach to perfumery. They brought with them the art of perfume and the science of perfumery, the culture of flowers and raw material for perfumery. This period saw advancements in the methods of extracting and blending fragrances.
The city of Córdoba, during the height of Al-Andalus, was a major center for learning and culture, including the art of perfumery. The influx of goods, including perfumes from the Middle East, brought new scents and the art of fragrance creation to Spain. While Haroun al-Rashid may not have traveled to Spain himself, his reign contributed to the cultural and economic exchanges that facilitated the introduction and evolution of perfumery in the region, influencing both local practices and later European traditions. Perfumes became a status symbol within Spanish and later European courts, much as they had been in the Islamic world. The use of elaborate fragrances reflected wealth and sophistication, and this cultural aspect can trace some of its roots back to the interactions during Haroun al-Rashid’s reign. The Islamic presence in the Iberian Peninsula lasted from 711 CE until 1492 CE, a period of nearly 800 years significantly influencing the culture, architecture, language and science of the region. Check our next Episode: Spain a Forgotten Legacy Part 2 In the meantime if you are passionate by perfume, follow Creezy Courtoy's World Perfume History Course  By Pinar Lacroix Fragrance Branding Expert and Teacher Brand Designer, Creative Director Packaging | Artist Pratt Institute Alumna | Advocate for Art & Craftsmanship in Natural Perfumery Empowering Fragrance Creators to Build Timeless Legacies Through Art and Craftsmanship with an Exciting New Course Collaboration. I am excited to collaborate with the International Perfume Foundation making fragrance packaging design accessible, timeless, and emotionally compelling. In this collaboration, we are developing a course that combines craftsmanship, art, and branding to help you create a visual story for your fragrance. Together, we’ll empower you to transform your ideas into a brand legacy that aligns with natural perfumery values—all without breaking the bank. The Challenge of Costly Branding The world of fragrance branding often demands significant financial investments, with design service packages ranging from $50,000 to $150,000 and even more with production costs. However, we believe in democratizing this process, equipping you with knowledge and materials to create a brand experience for your fragrance—one that can evolve for decades and build your legacy. Through this course, we will show you how to incorporate craftsmanship and art into every aspect of your fragrance branding, from naming and storytelling to visual design systems and packaging. The materials and techniques you’ll learn will provide you with a foundation to build upon, refine, and expand over time, ensuring your fragrance brand is timeless and resonates with your audience.  My Journey: Crafting Design that Stands Out My fragrance packaging journey began at Pratt Institute, where I studied fragrance packaging design under the legendary Marc Rosen, a pioneer in fragrance design. I found my passion for creating innovative and emotional branding during the Great Recession, a time when businesses cut budgets and designers needed to innovate with limited resources. During that time, I developed branding solutions for products using stock components while working with manufacturers in the beauty industry, creating luxurious designs that stood out on shelves without the need for custom manufacturing. This was during the rise of the Masstige movement, which brought accessible luxury to consumers. I discovered the power of graphic design to elevate product design, making them feel not only premium but also deeply personal. Today, I’m channeling that experience into empowering fragrance creators. Our vision is to make perfume precious again, where each packaging design stands like a model on a runway, capturing attention and connecting emotionally with memories, heritage, and people.  What This Course Offers
This course will help you bring craftsmanship and artistry into your fragrance branding while honoring the principles of Natural Perfumery. You’ll learn to create a visual identity that reflects the essence of your fragrance and resonates deeply with your audience. By the end of this course, you will have a complete visual package for your fragrance (no graphic design tools or skills needed), including the knowledge and materials to evolve and grow your brand. You will learn to build your fragrance as a collectible masterpiece, aligned with the artistry of natural perfumery to connect emotionally with your audience. This isn’t just about branding now—it’s about creating a legacy. The materials and techniques you learn in this course will be tools you can use for decades to refine and build your brand. Why This Matters Fragrance is more than just scent—it’s a story, a memory, and an experience. Your branding, story and packaging design elements should reflect that emotional depth while honoring your craftsmanship and your individuality. This course will show you how to make your fragrance feel precious and personal, creating packaging that serves as a work of art on a podium. We are here to help you connect with your audience through design and storytelling, leaving you with tools to build a brand that resonates today and stands the test of time. Let us help you craft something timeless together. More info about the course  By Andrej Babicky, Natural Perfume Expert and Teacher A Beautiful Way to Capture the Scent of Flowers Have you ever wished you could bottle the scent of fresh flowers straight from your garden? Some flowers, like roses or lavender, can be distilled into essential oils, but others, like lilacs, gardenias, and jasmine, are too delicate for traditional extraction methods. That’s where enfleurage comes in—a centuries-old technique that allows us to capture the pure, natural fragrance of flowers in a way that no other method can. The Enchanting Scent of Lilac One of the most magical flowers to experience in spring is lilac.. As soon as its blossoms appear, the air fills with a fresh, powdery sweetness that feels both nostalgic and uplifting. Lilac has a complex fragrance—a mix of honeyed florals, soft vanilla undertones, and a slightly green freshness that makes it truly unique. Walking past a blooming lilac bush on a warm day is like stepping into a cloud of pure springtime bliss. But as beautiful as lilacs smell, their scent is heartbreakingly fleeting. Once picked, their delicate fragrance fades quickly, and unlike roses or lavender, lilacs do not yield an essential oil through steam distillation. This makes enfleurage one of the only ways to capture their true scent and preserve their beauty beyond the blooming season. Imagine being able to enjoy the fragrance of lilacs long after their short-lived bloom is over—whether in a perfume, a solid balm, or a scented oil. With enfleurage, you can do just that. This method gently absorbs lilac’s aromatic molecules into a creamy fat base, preserving its scent exactly as it exists in nature.  How Enfleurage Works
The process is simple but requires patience. Fresh lilac flowers are placed onto a layer of fat (such as refined coconut oil or a blend of vegetable waxes) spread across a glass or ceramic surface. The flowers are gently pressed into the fat, where they release their fragrance over time. Then the spent flowers are replaced with fresh ones until the fat becomes saturated with their beautiful aroma. This fragrant pomade can be used as-is or further refined into a tincture or absolute for perfume-making. Want to Learn More? Join Our Courses & Workshops! If you're passionate about natural perfumery, we invite you to explore the Natural Perfumery Course and the Natural Raw Material Extraction Methods Masterclass where you’ll learn various extraction techniques, including enfleurage, maceration, tincturing, and distillation. These courses are designed for anyone who wants to deepen their understanding of natural fragrance creation. And if you love lilacs, don’t miss our special Lilac Enfleurage Workshop this spring! This hands-on experience will teach you step-by-step how to preserve the enchanting scent of lilacs using traditional enfleurage. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced perfume lover, this workshop will give you the skills to create your own botanical extracts. Stay Connected & Subscribe! Spring is the perfect time to start your journey into natural perfumery. Subscribe to our courses and workshops to learn the art of capturing nature’s most beautiful scents.  Napoléon Bonaparte and Joséphine de Beauharnais By Creezy Courtoy Perfume Historian and Anthropologist I would like to enlighten some of the historical figures who contributed to the world of perfume. Fragrance was not just a luxury but an essential aspect of social and political life, shaping cultures and influencing relationships throughout history. From ancient queens who used scents to assert their power and allure to emperors and kings who embraced fragrance as a symbol of sophistication and prestige, they all contribute to develop art of perfumery. They left an indelible mark on the world of scent, turning it into a powerful tool for expression, allure, and social status. Alexander the Great In 333 B.C., Alexander the Great defeated the Persians at Issos and Egypt moved to the Greek world. His conquests did lead to the blending of cultures, including those related to perfumes. Queen Cleopatra It was told that Cleopatra, the last Queen of Egypt (69-30 B.C.), Egypt experienced the height of perfumes. Of Greek origin and the daughter of Ptolemy, Cleopatra brought to Egypt one of the finest lifestyles. Before boarding her ship, she had the sails perfumed with scented oils composed of rare and precious ingredients. Cleopatra’s life was all about seduction and scents; Caesar fell under her spell and Antony into her arms. Emperor Nero Under the Reign of Emperor Nero, Dioscorides, a physician, pharmacologist and botanist, advocated several remedies to prevent and cure diseases. Like Egyptians and Greeks, however, Romans considered perfumes as a sign of the presence of gods. They attributed a scent to each deity. Queen of Sheba and King Solomon On The Perfume Roads, in the 10th century B.C., Balkis, the Queen of Sheba organized a meeting with Solomon, the Hebrew King. The Kingdom of Sheba (“Sheba” means “Mystery”) was located south of the Fertile Crescent. Its economy relied mainly on the cultivation of myrrh and incense for its main client: Egypt. King Solomon was the absolute Master over this route.  Queen of Sheba and King Solomon Caliph Haroun Al Rachid
Under the reign of Haroun Al Rachid (786- 809), Bagdad became a wealthy trading place, the most affluent and literate in Western Asia and its trade activities developed further. He lead the Abbasid Caliphs to organize a meeting of scholars in Baghdad coming from all over the empire and encouraged production workshops in all science disciplines, from the Greco-Roman world, promoting perfumery. Later, Avicenne (980-1037), invented a “cooling coil” for perfumery while Aricalna (10th century), taught the art of preparing scented waters. They even develop the “alembic” (al–ambiq meaning “vase”). Without any doubt, this rich culture established the basis for medieval perfumery. Emperor Akbar Akbar, who ruled the Mughal Empire from 1556 to 1605, was so passionate about perfumes that the audience room was always perfumed with flowers, amber, agarwood and perfumes composed of old recipes or even invented by his Majesty. Incense burned daily in holders made of gold and silver while scented water fountains exhaled perfumes around the palace gardens. This royal support encouraged the production and the trade of floral essences that were trendy at the Emperor’s Court. King François I To secure the import of raw materials from the East (including some used in perfumery) François I signed an alliance with Sultan Suleiman in 1536, on the model of the trade agreements previously signed by the Ottomans with Venice. This alliance gave the French a privileged position on the trade roads. Queen Catherine de Medici and King Henri II. A little Florentine Princess, Catherine de Medici, arrived in France in 1553. She brought in her luggage creams, pomades and beauty secrets, fashion for bottles worn in a pocket or placed onto a dressing-table as well as the fashion of perfumed gloves, the ultimate symbol of Italian aristocracy. She took with her private perfumer, René the Florentine who opened his first perfumery in Paris, at the Pont au Change. Henri II, under the influence of Catherine de Medici, created the first perfume bottle factory in France, in Saint-Germain en Laye. King Louis XIII and Queen Anne d’Autriche Perfumes had favor at the Court of Louis XIII, under the influence of the beautiful Anne d’Autriche. Of Spanish origin, she brought along with her the tradition of scented gloves, all the science of the culture of flowers and distillation, which Spain had inherited from the Arabs during the Caliphate of Cordoba. To scent the castle rooms, she introduced to France small cages containing little birds made of scented pastes called “Oiselets de Chypre” (Little Birds of Cyprus). Louis XIII recommended them to purify the atmosphere and as protection from epidemics. Louis XIII, introduced the title of “Master Glovemaker-Perfumer” in 1614 for a true corporation and statutes approved by the Provence Parliament in 1729, this new corporation gradually detached from tannery and finally stopped in 1759. King Louis XIV, the “Roy Soleil” (or “Sun King”) Appointed “the most perfumed King of the world”, Louis XIV dedication for personal grooming and fragrance is legendary. The Roy Soleil considered adornment as a strategy to promote the prestige of Versailles. Louis XIV even tried to create perfumes with his perfumer Martial. His influence not only revolutionized the world of fragrance but also established it as a key element of royal identity and status. King Louis XV and Marquise de Pompadour It was not for nothing that the Court of the King Louis XV was baptized the “Scented Court”. Men and women were competing for perfumes, aristocrats, bourgeois, people of law, of finances, men of letters and of the sword: everyone was perfumed. The King ordered that his apartments were impregnated each day with a new perfume. In Vincennes and Sevres, bronze perfume fountains were erected, decorated with statues and bouquets of flowers, to scent the city. Medical practitioners strongly recommended perfume for disinfecting and cleaning. The Toilet of a King consisted in rubbing hands and face with sweet almond oil before sprinkling perfume generously. The Marquise de Pompadour was at the same time lover and advisor of the King Louis XV. Pompadour’s influence on fashion and fragrance, alongside with her extravagant spending on perfumes showcases how intertwined scent and status were during her time. She was the incarnation of the sensual and refined culture of Versailles. Pompadour and du Barry (another Louis XV’s lover) launched the modes at Court. Perfumes were in vogue in all women’s circles in the city and are quickly adopted by any gallant knight, who, as for the powder, adopted the colors and the fragrances of his beloved one. Napoleon Bonaparte, Emperor of France and King of Italy and Josephine de Beauharnais Napoleon’s meticulous grooming habits and preference for Cologne Water reflect his understanding of the power of scent. He always had a specific bottle of Cologne water placed in his boots. As for Josephine de Beauharnais, Creole, accustomed to the strong scents of Martinique, she received the nickname “la Folle au Musc” (Mad Woman with Musk) while spreading the heady emanations in Napoleon’s entourage. Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie Under the Second Empire, a brilliant court led by Empress Eugenie was far too much for parties and balls not to love the refinements of the adornment and perfumes. Napoleon III defended the arts, music and made perfume the prerogative of his court. In conclusion, the world of perfume is deeply intertwined with history, shaped by influential figures who recognized the power of scent in personal expression and societal status. From regal queens to visionary leaders, these individuals set trends that defined their eras. Their passion for scent transformed the landscape of perfumery and their legacies remind us that perfume is more than just a luxury; it is a reflection of culture, identity, and ambition. Stay tuned to discover which contemporary leaders might shape the future of perfumery in the coming years and become a part of its history for generations to come. If you want to learn more about the history of perfume, enroll for Creezy Courtoy's intensive World Perfume History Course. |
Archives
June 2025
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed
