By Creezy Courtoy, World Perfume Historian and Anthropologist My first passion has always been the impressive history of perfume and I could never think the way I think today if I did not spend all my life collecting perfume antique artworks and searching for the true perfume history. When you start searching, it never ends and still today I am looking for something; each piece leading me to more research. In the Arab World, perfume was precious, it was considered as pure gold. Let me invite you to follow me on the history of perfume in that part of the world. Circa 4000 B.C., the Sumerians built the first City States such as Sumer, Ur, Uruk or Nippur, along rivers. “Mesopotamia” literally means “the country between the two rivers”. Located between Tiger and Euphrates, this region currently corresponds to Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Southern Turkey and Israel. Cuneiform writing carved onto the clay tablets reveals formulas and perfumes used by these ancient populations since the middle of the third millennium B.C. Lebanese cedar, cypress and myrtle were the three most used fragrances. Originally, the gods loved natural perfume and got close to those who wore them. This is why the servants of the temple covered their bodies with myrtle oils before carrying out the rituals and the offerings to the numerous gods. Perfumes were reserved to divinities, kings and temple worship. Gilgamesh, King of Uruk, lived a rather eventful life, characterized by his vain quest for immortality. Perfume, the most noble and precious element then made its way into his alchemy research. The relation between medicine and gods was very close. One of the healing gods was the two-headed snake Ningishzida. The snake, symbol of eternal life, might have been the first icon of caducei. His name in Sumerian is translated as “lord of the good tree”. About 1000 years later, the Akkadians replaced the Sumerians and created the first empire of the world ruled by Sargo the Ancient.
Phoenicians sailors and traders settled on the coast of Lebanon and build colonies in Cyprus, Crete, sicilia, malta and Northern Africa. Tyr, their capital, having enjoyed a permanent relation with Egypt and Mesopotamia, became one of the most important ports. Circa 1900 B.C., Babylonians replaced Akkadians. Hammurabi (1792-1750 B.C.), created the powerful empire of Babylon. Babylon remained the main warehouse of spices from all over the world for a long time. It received spices from India and from the Persian Gulf, scented gums from Arabia and balms from Judea. Nabuchodonosor I (1124 B.C.) had his palace built with cedar beams and cypress doors that smelled kilometers away. According to Herodotus, over 1000 talents of pure incense were burnt every year on the altar of Belus. Zoroaster prescribed the use of perfumes on altars five times a day. In the hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World, all the scented plants were showcased. According to Diodorus, (Greek columnist of the 1st century, contemporary of Julius Caesar) cedar, mimosa, Arabian jasmine, lily, crocus, iris, violet and rose, gave the Kingdom the reputation of owning the most beautiful roses of the Ancient Orient. Chaldeans, circa 600 B.C., represented the last civilization of Mesopotamia with two famous Kings: Nabopolassar and Nabuchodonosor II. They inherited a great culture, developed astronomy, astrology and added all this science to the Art of Perfumery. Plants and resins must be collected at certain times in the day, or at a precise moment in the year in order to reinforce their efficiency. The fall of Babylon, conquered by the Persians in 539, did not upset the trade of perfumes. Focused on the fringes of the desert, the caravan kingdoms owed an important part of their prosperity to the trade of perfumes. Sidon (then Carthage) replaced Babylon as the capital of perfume and spices. For the Cananeans as well as for Babylonians, Phoenicians and Sabaeans, perfumes and spices were both pure gold and divine message. For thousands of years, they carefully preserved the trade and even caused wars. Arabia Felix, also called the “Fertile Crescent”, stretched from Oman to the Suez Gulf and across its length were paths taken by the caravans. Called “The Perfume Roads”, these ancient trails linked the south to the North of this continent and crossed the deserts of one of the oldest countries in the world. To ensure the security of the trade on The Perfume Roads, in the 10th century B.C., Balkis, the Queen of Sheba organized a meeting with Solomon, the Hebrew King... If, like me, you are impassioned by World Perfume History, I will be happy to transmit my knowledge to you and tell you more about the Perfume History in the Arab World. We definitely need more perfume history teachers to make sure the perfume heritage will be preserved and transmitted to the next generations.
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By Terry Johnson, Business and Marketing Expert Anyone following news about the economy and business will hear about job cutbacks occurring due to economic weakness and sales declines.
The most popular comment from CEOs on company layoffs is: “We will have to do more with less.” The good news from this is that every business needs to do more with less all the time! It’s called about being more productive, and this is much easier to achieve for smaller businesses like natural perfumers than for larger businesses. So, how can a business do more with less and achieve high productivity? Here are some suggestions: 1. Purpose and Meaning The first step in doing more with less is ensuring that your business has a clearly defined purpose and that your products have real meaning and value to consumers. Purpose is the internal direction you want your business to pursue; product meaning is the external force that helps you connect and engage your products with people’s daily lives. Having a specific purpose and meaning for your business gives you direction, allows you to focus on the most important matters, and give you the ability to develop daily, weekly, and monthly priorities that will maximize the efficiency of your decision-making. 2. Re-Setting Priorities Setting or re-setting priorities means identifying and ranking the importance of business tasks over time. This activity should be totally subjective and should be modified as the daily dynamics of business unfold. It is also important to understand that most High-Value Consumers, rather than cutting back on purchasing, are actually re-setting their purchasing priorities, so High-Value business priorities should reflect this trend. Start by setting priorities for actions that will need to be done in the next 6 months. Then one for the next 30 days. Then, this week. And finally, make one list for today and one for tomorrow. 3. Time Management Once you’ve determined your purpose and meaning as well as set your priorities, managing your time allows you to schedule your prioritized activities to ensure that your time will be spent efficiently while fulfilling your purpose. There are many time management systems available, so look for one you feel comfortable with and begin doing more with less! Learn more about this important topic and how to prepare for the many exciting opportunities ahead for those marketing High-Value natural essences by enrolling in the Teacher’s Academy MasterClass Business and Marketing in the Post-Pandemic Natural Essence Community. By Creezy Courtoy, Anthropologist and Olfaction Expert OUR CHILDREN OLFACTORY SENSE The Olfactory Sense is the First Sense to Begin Development in the Fetus I have always been fascinated by olfaction, which is why I spent time studying gorillas. Like gorillas that use 100% of their olfactory sense, newborns have the same powerful sense of olfaction. Olfaction is the most powerful sense of all their senses. It is the first sense to begin development in the fetus, and arrives at maturity before all the others. Immersed in amniotic liquid, the fetus swims in a bath of emanations and swallows four to five quarts of flavored water per day. Newborns See With Their Nose The first odor discerned by newborns is the smell of their mother, and it is that smell which will determine their behavior towards others. The olfactory sense of newborns is certainly their most developed sense. It guides the child, and the messages they receive make them feel secure. Only a few days after their birth, babies begin using their noses to receive all emanations passing around them. Their smell is so sharp that they encounter all odors, even those we are no longer able to smell. Their olfactory sense is more sensitive than that of an adult. Even though they do not yet know how to express themselves verbally to communicate their senses, newborns react to odors through motor reactions of the respiratory or cardiac rhythm changes. Babies less than two weeks old orient themselves automatically towards maternal odors. They are dependent on their mother's constant attention to feel psychologically well. They will learn to recognize their mother by her smell, which they will prefer to any other smell and will bond to it; this process gives them the security they need to live. This is why we can say ”newborns see with their nose”. The First Years of a Child's Life Are Very Critical.
The olfactory sense, (and instinctive sense, considered as too animal-like), was almost entirely rejected by our society. In our present adult environment sight prevails over all other senses. Human beings have lost their olfactory sense and must learn to smell again. Olfaction is a very important sense in the harmonization of human beings because to feel good, we need all of our senses to be in balance. If the olfactory sense is not maintained, it progressively disappears sometimes completely when approaching old age. It is only lately that our society is realising how important the sense of smell is. Still, many parents and educators do not pay much attention to their own sense of smell and are not teaching their children to do so. This is why, I have put in place a Children Olfactory Preservation Program starting at 4 months, when babies start eating solid food. The first years of a child's life are very critical. Children’s sensory experiences help them build a bundle of emotions and sensations that gives them tools to grow and develop in harmony. It is necessary to help babies and young children preserve their olfactory habits. How Can We Engage Kids To Preserve Their Olfactory Instincts in This Visual And Auditory Civilization? How can we recreate olfactory education and re-develop olfactory habits? Les Ateliers des Petits Nez (Workshops for Little Noses) have been especially created to teach babies and children how to preserve the power of their olfactory sense. The International Perfume Foundation previously tested this Children Olfactory Preservation Program in nurseries and kindergartens. Today I am giving lectures on this subject, and I have created an Online MasterClass to teach young parents, grandparents, educators, nurseries, kindergartens and schools to accelerate this movement. Our children are our future, they need to feel good and to feel secured to face the challenges of this changing world. By Françoise Rapp, Certified Natural Perfumer, Aromatherapist and Aromachologist The term aromachology appeared in the 1980s and it describes the science of the phenomenon that links odors to behavior. We became aware at that moment of this subtle and profound power and above all, how it affects our daily life in all its aspects, from the intimate to the spiritual and the professional. For almost 26 years, I have been composing natural perfumes taking this dimension into account because it seems to me to be inseparable from the mission of the natural perfumer. My training as a naturopath has meant that I have also worked all these years with patients and therefore have seen what the positive effects of smell on emotions are. When we understand the role that smell plays on inner well-being, we understand the need to compose a natural perfume and its olfactory quality as well because it acts powerfully on the sensory memory. The olfactory sense is our most reptilian sense, and it is one of the most powerful because it is linked to our survival. Throughout our lives, we memorize a library of smells that can stay buried for years. The sense of smell is a sense outside the notion of time/space. Therefore, we can have a reaction linked to the very old memory of a person, a place, a situation when we feel a specific scent that reminds us of this. We can even smell so-called “ghost” smells just by reliving this memory. In a fragment of a second we travel in time and in an emotion that we thought had been forgotten. Smell: a Mental Representation For a molecule to become an odor, a brain is needed. According to Pierre-Marie Lledo, co-director of the Genes, Synapses and Cognition laboratory, our brain establishes olfactory maps from the combination of receptors activated by such and such a molecule. These cards work like a kind of QR code and allow each chemical stimulus to be associated with a mental representation: the smell. The latter is malleable and evolves according to our experiences and our culture. The first thing we perceive in a smell is its emotional side I either like it or I don't like it, before we even ask ourselves any other rational question. And if odors awaken in us such clear and intense emotions and memories, it is because the brain areas they activate are intimately connected with those mobilized by emotions: the hippocampus plays the role in long-term memory term: the hard disk that records our learning from the moment we were in our mother's womb. The amygdala plays a fundamental role in decoding our emotions generated by the different situations of our life. For example, it intervenes in behaviors such as fear, pleasure, or memory. The septal nucleus plays a role in controlling emotions and in feelings of pleasure, it is directly linked to the sense of smell. Aromachology, a Global Approach to Smell and Feel
This intrinsic link between smells and emotions has been questioned by many scientists who have tested its benefits. Some, like Dr. Aubert, say they know that certain smells can elicit emotional responses capable of transiently increasing the release of certain brain mediators such as serotonin, which promotes a positive mood and builds a state of well-being. Therefore, aromachology and products composed of natural plant essences have great power on the inner well-being of the person. This approach can be broken down into different types of products: from natural perfumes with an alcoholic or non-alcoholic base, to perfumed creams and balms for the body, to home fragrances, candles and even incense, to hygiene products and natural cosmetics. The market clearly shows that for two years during the pandemic period, the new consumer has been looking for sensory experiences in addition to product efficiency. They want an immersion in Nature which brings them benefits for their well-being. Beyond the Knowledge of Natural Essences As a creative perfumer, it is essential to acquire knowledge of the aromachological virtues of natural essences on the psyche since their action on the emotions is proven. This dimension adds to our responsibility as creators towards the consumer. Aromachology stands beyond natural perfumery and a simple pleasant scent and even a trained natural perfumer should be aware of it. Here is how natural essences act by simple olfaction. From their liquid state, by chemical reaction in contact with air, they are transformed into etheric gas. Volatile, by their infinitely small and light molecules, they bring to a quantum level a vibratory frequency which, like the photon, carries information. This information is a natural principle or intelligence of nature which has a function, here in this case properties. Therefore, a natural perfume has a dimension far beyond that of simply “smelling good”; it can be balanced and effective or it can be dissonant because certain raw materials will contradict each other. This olfactory dissonance is often unknown to the natural perfumer but not to the aromachologist. When composing the perfume, we set a clear objective on the result or the effect that is desired. From this, stem the selection of each ingredient that will compose it. Aromachological benefits can be substantiated in marketing materials and product claims. Creating natural perfumes, whatever their final form, requires, in my opinion, a knowledge of aromachology. Therefore, it seems to me necessary that knowing the olfactory and aromachological qualities of natural essences is essential for a natural perfumer It is obvious that they must master the sensory dimension and the virtues that their perfume will have on the emotions of the consumer. You can now learn and deepen your knowledge in the new aromachology course which starts on January 9th. It will be taught every first Monday of every month. Register for the course Access to the Aromachology Level 1 Masterclass By Andrej Babicky, Certified Natural Perfumer, Perfumotherapist and Natural Candle Expert What's not to love about candles? On winter evenings, their light warms the atmosphere, scents the room and makes the imagination travel. I have been creating candles for several years. At first they were just gifts for friends, but over time I came to create them for various brands. Perhaps that is how I rediscovered natural perfumery! Creating fragrances for candles is not easy. As a perfume enthusiast and natural perfumer, at first I would combine dozens of different raw materials only to realize that, mixed with wax, they did not work. You can imagine the disappointment when the scent was almost imperceptible! I did not give up: trying and experimenting, searching for information on the Internet, exchanging notions on dedicated forums or with manufacturers, I learned how to select different waxes, the importance of the right wick, which essences to use and which not to use. It was a long adventure...one that never ends! In fact, there is always a new product or a new extract coming onto the market. The customer may ask for a particular wax blend or a specific fragrance, and then you have to start all over again until you achieve the desired result. Candle making is an art that engages the hands and relaxes the mind. It is also a way to create personalized gifts or a signature fragrance for your home. In this workshop you will discover the world of candles, light and fragrance. You will learn how to choose equipment and prepare your work space, which waxes to use and which not to use, how to select the right wick and raw materials. Most importantly, you will learn how to create different types of candles. The course consists of four modules, one per week. By the end you will have an overview of the world of candle making, raw materials, and the basics of creating your own candle fragrances. By Terry Johnson, IPF Vice Chair and Business and Marketing Expert in the Natural Perfumery Environment When great people pass, we often reflect on what made them great in the first place. I say this having seen the widespread tributes and sympathy for Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II, who passed away after 70 years on the throne; which begs the question: How will your Natural Essence business be remembered? Will your business have a positive legacy because of where and when you began your business? Or how much money your business made? Or will it be because what you did with your business made the world a better place for it being here? The driving force behind a memorable business legacy comes from starting with a clear Vision/Purpose that includes what you believe will make the world a better place, and then successfully executing the Mission based on your Vision to make the world a better place. Everyone in the Natural Essence Community should consider the amazing opportunities we have to demonstrate to consumers how valuable Natural Essences and products made from Natural Essences are to consumers. Consumers will appreciate how much these Natural Essences contributed to their long-term wellness and well-being and will be far more likely to develop strong, lasting brand loyalty to those who provided them with superior products and services. Here are several Action Steps to help you achieve a memorable business legacy: 1. Understand and Follow the New Luxury Code of Respect. The New Luxury Code is a great starting point because it continually reminds us of the importance of respect, beginning with self-respect and then expanding outward from there. Mutual respect between members of the High-Value Natural Essence Community is necessary for development of better working relations and supply chain efficiencies within the entire Community. 2. Be the Expert in your Community Now more than ever, consumers are looking for ways to improve their well-being for themselves and for their families. The pandemic has changed consumer purchasing behaviors and preferences creating opportunities for everyone in Natural Essences. This means first educating yourselves and then passing on what you’ve learned to the communities you do business with. If you haven’t already, head to IPF’s Teacher’s Academy for up-to-date courses to educate yourself so that you can effectively teach others. 3. Pass on the Fascinating Heritage of Natural Essences Those who read Creezy Courtoy’s The Perfume Roads understand the tremendous impact perfumes and other natural essences have had on human wellness worldwide for millennia. Much of this heritage is in danger of being lost forever, and it should be the responsibility of the Natural Essence Community to preserve this heritage and educate consumers of its importance. 4. Support Our Bees What will be our legacy for children and grandchildren if we leave a world to them without flowers? Flowers and plants largely depend on pollination for their survival, yet despite this fact bees are being threatened and need to be protected, made healthy, and kept busy. Get to know more about bees and their importance and then educate consumers on how vital bees are to our future and what they can do about protecting them. Without bees, we have nothing. 5. Make an impact by Selling Superior Products!
No one should expect consumers to have a superior experience from using products that are not superior to begin with. On the other hand, products that provide superior results are always remembered! Your Natural Essence business has the power to touch and influence many lives and making a conscious effort to sell superior products assures your business will remain relevant and impactful with consumers in the long term. Enroll for a Business and Marketing Course in the Natural Perfumery Environment with Terry Johnson by Terry Johnson, Business and Marketing Expert The term Consumer-Centric Marketing refers to making consumer satisfaction a focus of your activities regardless of where you are in the supply chain. One might say “But doesn’t every retailer already do that?” Surprisingly, most retailers have either not developed effective Consumer-Centric policies or have not significantly modified them since the beginning of the pandemic. For High-Value Natural Essence retailers Consumer-Centric Marketing depends on retailers educating themselves with what consumers now want and also what they should want. What High-Value Consumers Want High-Value consumers are those who demand more value from the products they purchase, are willing to pay more if those demands are met, and if satisfied, will re-purchase again and again. The post-pandemic world has changed everything, including High-Value consumers’ purchasing behaviors. What were priorities for them before, aren’t necessarily what they prioritize now. One way to get a better appreciation of what current consumers want is to study how and why similar industries, such as sustainable brewed coffee (Starbucks) and premium wines (or other High-Value products similar to these examples), have succeeded. Find out how these companies engaged consumers using Consumer-Centric Marketing strategies. What High-Value Consumers Should Want A key point in convincing consumers to purchase from High-Value Natural Essence retailers is to first assume that most consumers don’t know your product well or at all. This should not be difficult, since if you are a Natural Perfumer, you are competing with synthetic perfumes that have 99% of the perfume market share. This lack of market share underscores the importance of Natural Essence retailers needing to differentiate themselves from competition in as many ways as possible. And keep in mind, we have products that are better for consumers’ health and happiness. This has great value to consumers, with wellness now at the top of every consumer’s purchasing priority list. Knowing what High-Value consumers should want (that they may not be receiving now) can put Natural Essence retailers in a much stronger competitive position to successfully engage their market. Here is a list of what potential High-Value Natural Essence consumers should want:
Are Consumer-Centric Marketing strategies included in your Vision Statement, Mission Statement, and Value Proposition ? Consumer-Centric marketing practices should permeate throughout your business, so it is absolutely necessary to incorporate Consumer Centricity into your Vision Statement, Mission Statement, and Value Proposition. Nothing is more important to a successful Natural Essence retailer’s future than these three related documents. They express exactly what you intend to do and can focus everyone on the importance and value of why you are doing it. Yet most retailers have either never developed them, have not properly developed them, or have not updated and modified them since the beginning the pandemic. Including Consumer-Centric Marketing strategies in your Vision Statement, Mission Statement, and Value Proposition will empower you, your business, and everyone working with you to clearly differentiate your business, and your products, while maximizing the market impact of your brand. Sri Kudaravalli's Interview by Françoise Rapp What inspired you to become a perfumer? The joy of delightful smells and a good nose. To express myself in a different language. Speaking through perfumes as perfumes can replace words. When created from love with intention, attention and the right ingredients, perfumes have the power to impact a person in a positive way. How did you start? What courses have you followed? I started reading first - books, online. Then I talked to some Indian perfumers and gained more knowledge. Later I came across the Natural Perfumery Teacher’s Academy online courses for French style natural perfumery. I really like how the curriculum is structured. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into designing the courses. It’s a full spectrum curriculum that includes - gardening, oil extraction, perfumery, aromatherapy, perfume history, olfaction to marketing adhering to IPF’s New Luxury Code. They pack a lot of punch in the short format courses and the information is very practical and actionable. The courses broadened my horizons and I picked up a lot of knowledge in a short period of time and was able to design products and create my brand. For anyone wanting to learn natural perfumery, the ancillary information and is environmentally conscious, it's a good place to start. The faculty is friendly, kind, and knowledgeable. What made you decide to create your brand? Several factors. As you know, we all went through a very difficult pandemic, the past two years, and many people are still experiencing a deep sense of isolation, fear and uncertainty. I asked myself what would be the role of a perfumer? How can I contribute? How can one help restore some sense of well-being? In this context, I would like to quote an ancient perfumer from India - Gangadhara, 1500 years ago, said: “The final goal of perfumery is to infuse semi-divinity within us and elevate our mind by freeing it from the mundane worries of the world." So, I feel as perfumers we have a certain responsibility to help people cope with everyday post-pandemic life, and it was in that spirit, Xila Apothic, was created. To me a brand is not just about selling products. It's about what you stand for. Xila Apothic is not just about perfumes - it introduces people to a way of life. Brand is a unique expression of you - your values, belief system, culture, a community of people with shared interests and rituals. It is a way of self-expression. What made you participate in the New Luxury Awards competition? I wanted to challenge myself. I think taking action is key to success. Entering a competition forces you think through things and paves way for smart and hard work. It stretches you and nudges you out of your comfort zone. In the process, you discover new facets of yourself and your strengths. What was your feeling when you came to Paris and received the New Luxury Award? It was very gratifying. A validation that belief in one-self and focused hard work pay off. I would like to thank Creezy Courtoy, IPF Chair, for creating this platform to showcase our talent and for encouraging natural perfumers. I would also like to thank the faculty at the Natural Perfumery Teacher's Academy for their guidance. What has happened to you since this? New opportunities are knocking on my doors, including investors and clients. We are launching a new product line for the upcoming festive holiday season starting from September 2022, besides what is already available. Social Media: @XilaApothic Interview with Pierre Dinand, the most inspired designer of his generation and undoubtedly the most prolific, with more than 800 of the most beautiful contemporary creations to his credit. Pierre Dinand, an insatiable form-maker, looks back on the fabulous story of a perfume that presided over the destinies of the most coveted olfactory boxes. - Hello, Pierre Bergé on the phone. Yves and I would like to see you very soon. - Let's say next week, avenue Marceau? - Tomorrow in Marrakech, it's really urgent Pierre. We are in January ‘76 in the Ateliers Dinand in Paris. Pierre interrupts ellipses and graceful lines to immediately book a flight by telex. We leave it to him to narrate the rest of this adventure which retraces the journey of Opium, a pioneering and provocative perfume which upset the codes of design in the world of haute-perfumery. Pierre Dinand: P. Bergé, who is not yet a billionaire, is waiting for me in his old Peugeot at the airport exit and drives me to the Villa Oasis in the Majorelle Gardens. The crackling fire in the fireplace, surrounded by green and blue tiles, welcomes my arrival in my room with its minimalist decor. Early in the afternoon, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé explain the facts to me. Squibb, the American pharmaceutical group that owns YSL perfumes, urges the duo to release a perfume within a year in accordance with the contract that binds them. The knife to the throat, Yves invites me to reflect on his projects, while handing me LSD pills (which I decline) on a superb Moroccan tray. On the large table in the living room, the drawings inspired by the great orientalist painters and the colorful bottles from the souks did not convince me and, back in Paris, I matured a completely different plan. The refusal of some makes the happiness of others Six months earlier, Nina Ricci USA, who wanted to integrate Kenzo into her collection, offered me to work on the project. Amused, I imagine a perfume in the form of an inrô, a Japanese lacquered box with compartments attached to the kimono. In September 1975, Kenzo declined the bottle, judging that a Japanese-inspired model would not appeal to Americans, still marked by Pearl Harbor. Marrakech: 15 days later: I find P. Bergé disproportionately angry. The Mamounia receptionist who confirmed my reservation dared to confuse Yves Saint-Laurent with the famous jockey Yves Saint-Martin. His anger quickly fades in view of my models. If the first ones, inspired by Cairo bottles are considered to be outdated, the black inrô triggers the excitement of Yves who, conquered, exclaims "We put spices, a ball of salt and OPIUM in it!!! ". Packaging adopted, baptized in 6 seconds. In six months, a red and gold range was born, available in six sizes: samples, pendant, extracts, eau de toilette, spray, giant dummy and display. A jade and purple version with pompom and ball of concrete is on the other hand ruled out. Opium, a UFO in the sky of the United States "We'll never throw this s… plastic!" ". The American cleaver falls. Not only is the bottle made of nylon, but it also has a drug name. Inconceivable in the USA! Never mind, Yves threatens to break the contract pushing Bob Miller, boss of the Laboratories, to authorize the sale on other continents. Paris June ‘77, Marvin Traub, CEO of the famous New York store Bloomingdale's, visits me and inquires about my new projects. "Dear Pierre, what's new? ". Pointing to the bottle of Opium, I reply “That! “, adding that the Americans refuse to market it on their soil. " It's fantastic! I don't need Squibb's agreement to sell a French perfume in my store,” enthuses Marvin. I then witnessed his incredible responsiveness: “Traub rents a Hertz truck and exhausts all Parisian stocks before shipping them by plane. Fifteen days later, Opium was so successful at Bloomingdale's that Squibb launched a press release to announce the pride of its teams in being at the origin of this unique fragrance. My name is of course eclipsed, the credit going to the creativity of the American laboratory. The breathtaking launch of pomp will take place a year later on the boat Le Pèlerin moored in the port of South Street at the tip of Manhattan, where the Chinese landed their cargoes of opium! An addictive perfume, object of all desires - Hello? This is Francois Dalle. Well done Dinand! Opium is great, I want the same for L'Oréal! - Let's schedule a meeting! In 5 minutes, I'm already on my way to your workshops, you have 6 months ahead of you. Rejecting the choice of couturier Jacques Fath, it was agreed to use Magie de Lancôme and give it a mysterious character with voodoo connotations. Magie Noire, designed in the same materials as Opium, was released in the spring of ‘78. That same year, the President of Revlon also called me. So I insisted on working with the talented Pierre Balmain, whose brand is owned by the group. Ivoire was born in ‘79. The extent of Opium juice, in the technical sense of the term, was then matched only by its worldwide success. “The war of the pompoms”, according to the press, is declared. Estée Lauder files a lawsuit against Squibb. Opium juice would only be a copy of "Youth Dew", his first successful oriental perfume. Loser, her revenge will take the form of Cinnabar, topped with a lacquered polymer cap using the color codes of Opium. Knowing that I was not responsible for the olfactory composition, she entrusted me with the design of Pleasures which would be released 10 years later. Finally, it was the turn of Laboratoires A.-H. Robins, in Richmond, Virginia, owners of Caron for entrusting me with “Nocturnes” a black and gold bottle in biodegradable cellulose acetate, then Rubinstein, owner of Giorgio Armani, for whom I designed Armani. Meanwhile, Dior, owned by LVMH, without consulting me, launched Poison in 1982. This is how Opium derivatives spread around the world. The genesis of Opium, the best-selling perfume in the world, is now visible on Avenue Marceau, at the Yves-Saint-Laurent museum, to which I donated my models and sketches. But what happened to the galalith jewel (designed by my wife Danielle Poullain) of the dark and blue jade version that did not catch the attention of the great couturier? Alternative Fragrance Festival offers the opportunity to discover how a jewel can contribute to the creation of a bottle. Indeed, I had the pleasure of designing a new range of perfumes whose cap is inspired by this jewel acquired by Nadia Benaisa, creator of the brand Les Soeurs de Noé. A delicate link between East and West, fragrances and packaging echo the passion of the mythical couple Saint-Laurent/Bergé for Franco-Moroccan aesthetic accords. by Creezy Courtoy
By Vennie Chou, Skin Expert and Natural Skin Care Teacher I started studying and developing natural skin care over 20 years ago. I work in a Western Medicine field, but I have a strong passion for the wisdom of traditional medicine, especially Chinese Medicine. I strongly believe that there is a harmonious blend of both medicinal fields. In Western medicine, I learned the physical structures of our skin and how the structures relate to one another. However, the traditional medicine focuses on the actions of the botanicals and how our body reacts or behaves to their properties. This knowledge is developed from historical observations and valuable experiences. This is important. This is clinical experience along with evolution. We cannot separate ourselves from the natural environment. When the environment changes, we need to change how we take care of ourselves. We eat different foods to balance effects of seasonal changes and we use different blends of personal products to protect our skin at different times. When I create a formula, I have to develop three dimensionally. In one dimension, I have to think about blending the scents. The natural scents have to be harmonious. The second dimension, I have to consider the environmental changes on our body and what botanicals to use to balance the environmental effects. The third dimension is to balance the energy of botanicals with the movement of energy or ‘Chi’ in traditional Chinese Medicine. Different parts of a single plant can have different effects on the body. Natural world is alive and constantly changing. Our body and skin are alive and constantly changing. Therefore, what we use on ourselves has to work with the changes. This is sustainable natural skincare, especially if we learn to use plants that evolve with the environmental changes. Learning to create natural skincare is an active process that brings us closer to nature. |
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