 By Ana-Elena Sastrias, Natural Aromatherapy Teacher Botanical Diversity in the study of Ethnical or Regional Essential Oils Ethnical Aromatherapy invites us to look beyond the essential oil itself and return to its true origin. An essential oil is not simply a fragrant extract — it is a complex and concentrated expression of a plant, shaped by its land, its climate, and its botanical identity. Obtained through distillation or cold pressing, each essential oil carries not only its chemical composition, but also the imprint of its country of origin and its genotype. Understanding this diversity is fundamental to both the art and the science of aromatherapy. Aromatherapy is both an Art and a Science that involves healing oneself with the use of Essential Oils. Ancient civilizations, including Egyptians and Greeks, used aromatic plants and oils for medicinal and therapeutic purposes. When talking about Aromatherapy, we usually refer to Lavender, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Basil, Chamomile (German and Roman), Jasmine, Rose, Clove, Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Mint, Peppermint, Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Juniper (Juniper berry), Cypress, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Star Anise, Ginger, Carrot Seed, Orange Sweet, Bergamot, Lemon, Lime, Grapefruit, Mandarin, etc. Each Essential Oil has specific properties depending on the Region of Extraction and the type of soil and Genotype. It is important to know that there are different varieties of plants and each of those varieties of plants provide an Essential Oil with a different scent profile and may provide a different therapeutic use. Carl von Linné, in the 18th century, dedicated his scientific work to making a general classification of plants and animals. He described each classification by three names: Family, Genus and Species. Usually, these three names will be given Latin names, as a universal language. In his book Species Plantarum , Linné defined a binomial nomenclature, using two names): 1. Gender Name 2. Species Name This binomial term classification continues to be used up to date. Gender in ˆLatinized” capital letter. Species in “Latinized” lower case letter. The Species name is often based on characteristics of the plant by their shape, properties, country of origin, smell, color, number of flowers, time of growth or flowering. For instance: Eucalyptus has 3 species: Eucalyptus radiata (Peppermint like gum scent, NSW, QLD, VIC, TAS, Australia) Eucalyptus citriodora (Lemon like gum scent, Queensland, Australia), Eucalyptus globulus (Woody camphoraceous like gum scent, Tasmania, Australia). Each of these 3 different species of Eucalyptus will have a different aroma profile and therapeutic use. Eucalyptus radiata is used to treat congestion in the upper respiratory tract (nose, throat, pharynx), while Eucalyptus globulus is used to treat congestion and infection in the lower respiratory tract (lungs, bronchi, trachea, bronchioles). Eucalyptus citriodora has been used as an insect repellent, also it is decongestant in the upper respiratory tract, use in pain relief as an anti-spasmodic treating arthritis, muscle pain; and it is an antiseptic used for treating wounds and cuts. The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN) and the International Code of Nomenclature of Cultivated Plants (ICNCP) have 114 classified existing botanical families, including:
These families’ names are in Latin:
This means that it is a genuine botanical source and contains no fillers, additives or other impurities or adulterations. The Chemotype or Chemical Race is like an ID card of a plant. The “chemotype” makes it possible to distinguish two or more essential oils of different chemical compositions produced from plants of the same species. For instance:
Basil Chemotypes:
Chamomile Chemotypes:
 Cedarwood For Cedarwood, there are four Chemotypes:
Both have lymph-tonic and draining properties, significant lipolytic skin regeneration and scalp tonic. Beware, these varieties have abortive and neurotoxic properties in the long term. Each country grows local, ethnical aromatic plants, and this is important to know regarding diversity and the use of essential oils sourced locally.  Indian Sandalwood Sandalwood: Currently, Australia is growing two varieties of Sandalwood: Deadwood Sandalwood and Northern Sandalwood. Both Australian Sandalwoods have a very distinctive aromatic profile and also, they have a different aromatic profile from the Indian Sandalwood. This allows perfumers to get out of their habits and experiment with new varieties of the same species. In Yucatán, México, there are aromatic plants that come from the same species of Marjoram or Oregano and Basil:  Spanish Hill Oregano Lippia graveolens Kunth: (Spanish Hill Oregano) it is grown in Texas, USA, and Mexico, Central America. This Mexican Oregano is used as an antiseptic, antipyretic, analgesic, abortive, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, diabetes and menstrual problems. The essential oil extracted from this plant has carvacrol, and timol mostly. It has been used as a Flavor component, in Perfumery, Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals and Liquor. Ocimun campechianum Mill: (Hill’s Basil) it is grown in USA down to South America. It is used in traditional medicine to treat intestinal inflammation, ulcers, gastritis, dysentery, vomit, and stomachache. The Essential Oil from this plant is extracted from its leaves. It contains eugenol, beta-elemene, beta-caryophyllene, eucalyptol, metil-E-cinnamate and carvona.  India Lavender Tree Bursera linanoe: (Indian Lavender Tree) is native to Mexico, and it is cultivated in India for the extraction of the essential oils from the wood and berries. This tree species produces a combination of Lemon and Jasmine scent. This Indian Lavender Tree is a different species compared to Lavandula shrub. This species contains linalyl acetate and is used as a substitute to Bergamot. In Guerrero, Mexico, there is an Artcraft production of decorated wooden boxes called “Cajitas y Cofres de Olinalá” made from the Linaloe wood of this Indian Lavender Tree.
REFERENCES: 1. Plantas Aromáticas de Yucatán - Calvo Irabién, Luz Ma. 2. Natural Aromatherapy IPF Certification Course - Sastrias, Ana Elena
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 By Vennie Chou, Natural Skin Care Teacher Ancient Chinese perfume beads were more valuable than gold. Jewelry made from the perfume beads were worn by all emperors and the wealthy. Due to the high cost of the perfume bead jewelry, the beads were rare. Today, the art, processes and medicinal history of Chinese medicinal beads are almost extinct. Here is a little history of why the perfume beads or He-Sian-Zu are so valuable. More than 2,200 years ago, during the Qin Dynasty (ruled by the first Emperor who built the Great Wall), there were many wars and epidemics. However, people found that in areas where there were wild scented plants growing, fewer people became ill. Since they did not understand the reason why scented plants were so protective, they worshiped these plants during ceremonies and used them to show their gratitude for the gods who had provided these healing plants. During the Han Dynasty (206 BCE), the Silk Road was built as a trade network connecting China with Persia and the West. This trade network facilitated economic and cultural exchanges, which resulted in more precious scented botanicals being brought into China. Also, during this same time period, the Traditional Chinese Medicine framework was firmly established, and the oldest Chinese medical text (Huangdi Neijing) was compiled. In addition, the uses of herbs and other medicinal substances were recorded to set a basis for pharmacology. The development of scented plants and resins in perfume beads were more refined and developed. Later during the Tang Dynasty (618 AD), the golden age of Chinese economy and culture, Buddhism spread quickly. The Silk Road expanded to Southeast Asia. Many of the imported and beautifully scented woods and plants became widespread within Chinese Medicine and with perfume beaded jewelry. The Buddhist monks wore them and held them in their hands when they meditated.  Wearing perfume beaded or carrying scented sachets were almost a dressing ritual that lasted for thousands of years. People learned and strongly believed the scented botanicals provided protection and healing for their health. Many of the plants listed in Chinese pharmacology texts were scented plants. For example, Oud, Sandalwood, and roses were widely used in these perfume beads. Their scents have the effect of warming to facilitate circulations and smooth movement of Chi (energy). They also calm the nerves and mind to reduce stress and clear the mind. Chronic stress increases cortisol production and causes multiple health issues. Moving blood and Chi helps stimulate the immune system to combat and to heal damage. Traditional Chinese Medicine promotes and emphasizes health ‘Prevention’. Wearing perfume beads made purely from scented plants, woods, and resins was a way of protection and prevention of illness and stabilizing mental and emotional health. Unfortunately, we are losing this ancestral hand-crafted ‘medicine’ using a composite of pure plants and resins to make a wearable to protect our physical and mental health. What we see in the markets are mostly wooden beads with chemicals or essential oils added to them.  Ancient perfume beads were made from the finely ground dust of healing, scented botanicals. The composition of each particular plant chosen was well considered and designed for different weaknesses or illnesses. The ancient, scented perfume beads had a purpose and lasted a very long time.
I wanted to retrieve this ancestral medicinal art/skill back, so I studied the ancient processes and hand-rolled a variety of perfume beads from resins and plants from which I had collected and harvested. I found the process very meditative and meaningful. When I wore the necklace, the release of continuous and gentle scent lasted all day. The heat from my body moved the consistent, healing scents to my face. I invite you to the Ancient Chinese Perfume Beads Master Class where this rare ancestral knowledge will be shared and brought back to life. |
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